2012-12-18 【Aiden in English】
As I walked toward our new tour guide this morning, I felt a sense of dread crawling up my stomach. This tour was going to be a long hike on the side of the crater which was at least 10 miles. When our tour group arrived at the archaeological site of Ahu Vinapu, the heat started to act up. Before I could change my mind, I trekked up the hill. But not long, I was exhausted by climbing and my feet were sore from walking on pointy and slippery rocks.
I never imagined that I would make it to the top of Rano Kau, but eventually, I did challenge myself in such uncomfortable hot, and humid weather. When I took my last step, I was greeted with amazing sights and I could not believe that I was standing on the edge of the crater with a size of a one-mile in diameter. The crater was filled with water, reeds, and green algae on the surface. Near the southern tip of the crater, it was the oldest stone village named Orongo which contained a row of 53 houses like caves directly facing the Pacific Ocean of Motu Nui, Motu Iti, and Motu Kao-Kao. It was also the competition center for birdmen who became a winner to collect Sooty Tern egg for his king and to swim from islets back to Rapa Nui safely every September. The doors looked extremely small and only street dogs were capable of crawling in and out without bumping heads and tripping feet in modern days.
The group took a long walk along the edge of the crater to a pavilion where I jumped onto the bus and dashed back to the hotel. At noon, I ate a delicious lunch of marinated lamb chops. The juice oozed down my chin as the wonder of the taste ran through my body.
After a great meal and a hot shower, I went to meet our afternoon tour guide. I was surprised to see the same lady who guided us to Rano Raraku and Moai Quarry yesterday afternoon. This time we were going to see caves along the seaside of West Easter Island where Rapa Nui native people protected themselves from the enemy attack during the wars. The first cave wasn't so impressive but an excellent hiding dwelling. The door was narrow and only one person allowed to get in at a time. The second one was pitch-black and led into the Pacific Ocean. With flashlights, I kneed down to the holes where the ocean came into view in the nearest distance. The sightseeing became astonishing as pleasure brought fresh sea breeze through two big holes on the side of sheer cliffs, although I heard that my legs trembled, my hearts pounded, and my lips quivered overwhelmingly.
Like many others, the beach in this area had no sand because Easter Island was a volcanic island. Seven Moai at Ahu Akivi lined up facing the sea and looked at the direction Rapa Nui originally came from. This was the only site where Moai were not facing inland. It's said that they were not only the kings but also the Seven Explorers because they were the first ones to come over and discover Easter Island as a safe place for Rapa Nui who went through a civil war back in their own homeland.
Deep down south, Moai with eyes cheered me up at Ahu Tahai Archaeological Complex. This was only Moai that restored eyes on his face on Easter Island. To me, the eyes looked creepy in two large, white, and round with black pupils dotted in the center.
After all, I had no hesitation to hit on the road and rush all the way back to my hotel for a rest.
【红霞译文】 今早尚未见到导游之前,我知道马上就要沿火山凝灰岩万里长征,徒步跋涉至少10英哩/1万6千米,内心不免开始犯怵。起点站设在印加祭坛考古遗址,至今仍保留印加帝国石墙建筑工艺,由此被推断早期岛民来自南美洲地区。不等我们开拔,闷热天气早已兴风作浪。来不及打退堂鼓,我下意识地朝火山口方向走去。山路蜿蜒起伏,原野凹凸不平,没过多久,我腿酸脚痛,体力很快就吃不消了。 我做梦也没想到自己能爬上大火山淡水湖口,不过最终我还是面对挑战成就了自身,并且历经闷热潮湿的气候煎熬。到达目的地时,我发现眼前壮观的景色出神入化,该火山口直径足有一英哩宽,口内积水成湖,湖面长满了芦苇和绿藻植物。火山口南端礼仪村遗迹内,53栋看上去像山洞一样大小的石头房屋面朝太平洋,大岛、小岛和海栈由远而近,依次排列。传说古代每年九月,各族“鸟人”都要在此进行竞技比赛,谁先从大岛拿到第一个黑燕鸥下的鸟蛋并成功游回礼仪村,未来一年他的首领将有权统治复活节岛。一、两个世纪以前建造的石房正门实在小得可怜,如今恐怕只有东游西逛的流浪狗儿才会轻车熟路,灵光得既碰不到头也歪不着脚。
我们绕火山口周围转了好半天,终于在游客服务部歇息下来。我归心似箭,趁机搭车返回酒店。午餐的红烧羊排非常好吃,汁浓滋补脸颊,肉香沁润心脾。 美食穿肠,热浴过身,我整装待发。出人意料地,今天下午的导游竟是昨天带我们参观槽型火山淡水湖及采石场的那位土著阿姨。我们按计划出征复活节岛西海岸,那里有大拉帕为防御外来敌人追杀而挖建的秘密地洞。第一个地洞深入内地,洞门很小,一次只能容下一人进出,防止敌人蜂拥而入,起到隐蔽藏身的功效,除此而外,没有其它什么特别可言。第二个则不同,地洞里面黑咕隆咚的,伸手不见五指,其尽端直通太平洋。我弯腰屈膝钻进洞内,借助手电筒发出的微光摸索前进。这时,海风顺着两个洞口和煦地扑面吹拂,景致别有洞天。洞外悬崖峭壁,惊涛拍岸,我禁不住两腿发抖,心跳如雷,嘴唇上下不停地打着哆嗦。 西部海岸到处一派黑色砂砾,没有任何像模像样的海滩,这跟复活节岛火山地貌有关。拓荒者祭坛上七人摩艾石像面向太平洋,昂首远望大拉帕土著居民的故乡,这是全岛唯一没有朝向岛内的雕像群。这七位摩艾不仅是部落酋长首领,而且还是无畏的先驱,正因为他们离乡背井并发现了复活节岛,才使其同胞告别本土战乱,世代生活在人间天堂,安居乐业。 再往南下,双礼仪石像群遗址有个全岛唯一长有眼睛的摩艾石像,两个硕大无比的白眼珠子配上黑幽幽阴森森的瞳孔,看上去让我心惊肉跳。 到此为止,我只想赶紧离开这里,别无它求。
Today in History(历史上的今天): 2010: 节日热情(Holiday Enthusiasm)
2009: 新西兰奥克兰异乡重逢(Reunion in Auckland, NZ) 2009: 新西兰奥克兰(Auckland, New Zealand)
Southeast Coast on the Most Weathered Poike w/ relatively Stoneless Soil (东南海岸·高贵火山风化严重,土壤少有石头 12-18-2012)
Southeast Coast Hiking Trail on Poike Ditch (高贵火山沟·东南海岸登山步道 12-18-2012)
10-Mile/16-Km Hiking Trail along Southeast Coast (10英里/16公里东南海岸登山步道 12-18-2012)
Hiking along the Crater Rim on the Way to the Summit of Rano Kau (火山边缘通往大火山口淡水湖制高点的登山步道 12-18-2012)
Flourished Vines in Low Vegetation (强劲生长的低植被藤蔓)
Ahu Vinapu Archaeological Site, Stonewall Faced towards Sunrise @ Winter Solstice w/ Extraordinary Stonemasonry Consisting of Large, Carefully Fitted Slabs of Basalt (太阳之子遗址·冬至时石墙面向日出,精湛的砌石技艺使得大玄武岩石板间天衣无缝)
Rano Kau above Sea Level of 324-m/1,063-ft (大火山口淡水湖·海拔324米/1,063英尺 12-18-2012)
A Gap @ the Southern End of the Crater Wall, Rano Kau (大火山口淡水湖·在火山口墙南端有一个缝隙 12-18-2012)
Inside Walls of the Crater Sloped @ An Angle of between 45°and 65° (大火山口内壁倾斜角度介于45°—65°之间)
Motu Iti between the Larger Motu Nui and the Sea Stack of Motu Kao Kao (小岛介于大岛和海栈之间 12-18-2012)
Motu Nui vs. Motu Iti (大岛与小岛)
53 Stone Houses @ Orongo Village (礼仪村·53栋石房 12-18-2012)
Birdman Carved from Red Scoria (火山渣鸟人石刻)
Petroglyphs on Red Scoria & Makemake w/ 2 Birdmen @ Orongo Village (礼仪村·火山渣石岩画与两个鸟神星人)
Ahu Akivi w/ All of Equal Shape & Size (七人面海摩艾祭坛·形状大小相同的石像 12-18-2012)
Exactly face sunset during the Spring Equinox & have their backs to the sunrise during the Autumn Equinox. (七人摩艾祭坛·石像春分时面向日落而秋分时背朝日出)
Set up as Celestial Observatory around the 16th Century (七人面海摩艾祭坛·被视为16世纪前后建立的天文台)
The only site where Moai were not facing inland
(全岛唯一没有朝向岛内的摩艾雕像群)
Tahai Ceremonial Complex (双礼仪石像群 12-18-2012)
Tahai & Ahu Ko Te Riku @ Tahai Ceremonial Complex (双礼仪石像群·塔海与大眼睛祭坛)
Tahai & Ahu Ko Te Riku @ Tahai Ceremonial Complex (双礼仪石像群·塔海与大眼睛祭坛)
Ahu Ko Te Riku w/ the Restored Eyes @ Tahai Ceremonial Complex (双礼仪石像群·大眼睛祭坛 12-18-2012)
West Coast Hiking Trail (西海岸登山步道 12-18-2012)
Mirador Hanga Kioe (老鼠湾 12-18-2012)
West Coast (西海岸 12-18-2012)
Wild Horses on West Coast (西海岸·野马 12-18-2012)
Ana Te Pahu, Large Lava Tubes w/ An Overgrown Garden of Sweet Potatoes, Taro & Bananas (鼓山洞·大熔岩道里长满了红薯,芋头和香蕉的花园)
Ana Te Pahu w/ An Overgrown Garden of Sweet Potatoes, Taro & Bananas (鼓山洞·长满了红薯,芋头和香蕉的花园)
Ana Kai Tangata, Sea Cave (食人者洞穴·海穴 12-18-2012)
Marinated Lamb Chops @ Explora Rapa Nui (复活节岛探索酒店·红烧羊排 12-18-2012) Snack @ Explora Rapa Nui (复活节岛探索酒店·茶点 12-18-2012)
Dinner @ Explora Rapa Nui (复活节岛探索酒店·晚餐 12-18-2012) Crosslinks(相关博文):
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