2013-12-16 
【Aiden in English】
We sailed from Mumbai to Mormugao off the western coast of the Arabian Sea. Mom and I would tour the town of Old Goa, where the Portuguese colonized and once lived as the former capital of the Portuguese Indies from the 16th to the 18th centuries. In ancient times, Goa was a nation of cowherds and was quite overpopulated. The villagers were forced to abandon their homes and escape the plague and malaria in history. We went across the Western Ghats Mountain chain and saw signs of Portuguese influence. Some houses had balconies that overlooked the gardens, streets, and the town. Most of the homes were furnished with fancy, stylish porches. Beautiful church architecture is found in many places after the Portuguese introduced Christianity. Today, we visited two crucial churches out of many more. Those churches and the Western Ghats are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The first church, the Basilica of Bom Jesus, was more famous than the other. It was built from black laterite stone, with marble and inlaid precious stones, and is the finest example of Baroque architecture in India. However, the most important thing was to hold the body of the patron saint of Goa, Francis Xavier, who taught people about evangelism. On the journey to China from India, St. Francis Xavier felt sick and passed away. The captain decided to bury him locally. Half a year later, his body was still in the condition it was when the captain dug it out and wanted to carry it back to Goa. The very salty and dry weather helped preserve the body well. Eventually, the captain moved his body back to India and buried it in this church. Years later, the scientists dissected the corpse and accidentally lost all its organs. Now, the body was completely hollow inside but remained in decent shape. I believe this happened because of the good deeds he did in his life. The second church, the Se Cathedral, consisted of a convent surrounded by a vast courtyard with exotic plants, as well as the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary and the Church of St. Caetano, among others. The interior showcased Portuguese columns, pediments, altars, wall paintings, and frescoes. The exterior of the Italian columns, platform, and doorway was another example of Renaissance architecture. This church was larger than any in Portugal. The complex was so big that we only explored a quarter of it. The most striking story to me was that many rich people were buried underneath the church after death. When people came to pray and walked over their tombstone-paved aisles, the rich ones would make it a way of saying that anyone else was better than they were, which released all the sins they had committed in the past. Sometimes, the universe will give you good things if you provide the good stuff. In 1986, the Churches and Convents of Goa were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 【紅霞譯】
離開孟買“母親”後,我們繼續沿阿拉伯海南行,直到果阿邦“牧牛國”港口城市莫爾穆加奧“三村莊”,我和媽媽打算去果阿老城一趟,遊覽這座葡萄牙殖民者曾於16~18世紀期間設成駐印首府的古都。據歷史記載,果阿邦曾經人口過剩,當地人一度為擺脫鼠疫和瘧疾而被迫離鄉背井。
我們穿越西高止“寬闊台階”山脈,一路上昔日葡萄牙殖民遺風猶存,諸如伸出房外可以俯瞰庭院街道馬路的陽台、時尚別致的走廊、風格講究的基督教堂之類的西洋建築結構屢見不鮮,今天我們重點參觀眾多教堂中的兩個,連同西高止山一起均被聯合國教科文組織列入《世界遺產名錄》。
第一個是最著名的邦姆“仁慈”耶穌大教堂,其建築上全部採用當地黑色紅土石、大理石和鑲嵌寶石材料,風格上號稱全印度巴洛克藝術極品,另外這個教堂更因擁有果阿邦守護神弗朗西斯·沙勿略“主保聖人”的遺體而為各地朝聖者心嚮往之。主保聖人曾為葡萄牙基督傳教士,在去中國布道路上不幸病亡,起初船長就地入殮,半年過後當他挖出遺體準備運回果阿邦時,發現整個遺體因高鹽乾燥有利條件而保存完好,最後得以如願送回印度併入棺下喪到仁慈耶穌大教堂。過了若干年,科學家們對主保聖人的屍體進行了解剖研究,不知怎麼搞的,所有內臟器官竟先後不翼而飛,現存的主保聖人遺體實際上只剩下一具外觀尚好的空殼,我覺得這是他生前積德行善的結果。
第二個是果阿邦最大的主教堂,整個建築群氣勢浩瀚,包括修道院及其種植了多種奇花異草的庭院,玫瑰聖母教堂、聖卡耶坦“洞穴”教堂等散落在周圍不遠的地方。教堂內部木樑、山形牆、祭壇、壁畫和浮雕等優美地再現了葡萄牙建築之精華;教堂外表石柱、平台、大門入口處巧妙地借鑑了意大利文藝復興藝術手法,就其規模大小而論,葡萄牙國內任何一個教堂都無法與大教堂相比,正是基於這個原因,我們這次遠道而來也只能參觀其中的四分之一。
值得一提的還有,許多富人死後都情願葬身大教堂下面,當前來祈禱的教徒腳踩由死者墓碑鋪成的過道時,死者“內心”釋然,因此而了卻生前所欠的孽債,以求心地純淨並儘早隨主升天。 世間萬物就是這樣,善待他人就等於善待自己。 1986年,果阿的教堂和修道院被聯合國教科文組織納入《世界遺產名錄》。 Today in History(歷史上的今天): 2012: 機場文化(Airport Culture) 2009: 夢系新西蘭長白雲之鄉(Land of the Long White Cloud) Basilica of Bom Jesus in the Early 17th-Century Baroque & Portuguese Colonial Architecture
(慈悲耶穌大教堂·17世紀早期巴洛克與葡萄牙殖民時期建築風格) Basilica of Bom Jesus w/ the Friendly & Generous Reception from Locals
(慈悲耶穌大教堂·受到當地人友好慷慨的接待 12-16-2013) 
Façade @ Basilica of Bom Jesus in the Late 16th-Century Baroque & Portuguese Colonial Architecture (慈悲耶穌大教堂正面觀·建於16世紀晚期巴洛克—葡萄牙殖民時期建築風格 12-16-2013)

Relics of St. Francis Xavier @ Basilica of Bom Jesus (慈悲耶穌大教堂·主保聖人遺物) 
Basilica of Bom Jesus in the Baroque-style Main Altar, Gilded & Bearing the Statue of Ignatius of Loyola Standing Between Solomonic Pillars, under the Name of Jesus in the IHS Monogram & the Holy Trinity. (慈悲耶穌大教堂·鍍金的巴洛克式主祭壇,在智者柱之間立着耶穌會創始人雕像,上面為象徵基督的耶穌名字和三位一體) Icon Gallery @ Basilica of Bom Jesus
(慈悲耶穌大教堂·聖像博物館) 
Carved Door of the Basilica of Bom Jesus (慈悲耶穌大教堂·雕花門) Mandovi Estuary (曼多維“鎮靜”河口)

River Mandovi, the Lifeline of Goa (曼多維河·果阿邦的生命線) Church of St Francis of Assisi by the River Mandovi
(曼多維河岸方濟各教堂)
Church & Convent of St. Francis of Assisi Built in 1503 & Witnessed the Colonial Ambitions of the Portuguese in the Subcontinent
(聖方濟各教堂和修道院·建於1503年並見證了葡萄牙人在次大陸的殖民野心 12-16-2013) Cloister @ Church & Convent of St. Francis of Assisi
(聖方濟各教堂和修道院·迴廊 12-16-2013) Se Cathedral, a Stunning Blend of Architectural Styles, Including Portuguese-Manueline, Gothic, & Renaissance Elements, w/ a Tuscan Exterior & Corinthian Interior in the Early 16th Century
(主教大教堂·令人驚嘆的16世紀早期葡萄牙—曼努埃爾式、哥特式和文藝復興式元素等建築風格的融合,外觀為托斯卡納式,內部為科林斯式 12-16-2013) Se Cathedral w/ Rich Interior & Artwork
(主教大教堂·華麗的內部裝飾和藝術品 12-16-2013) 
Se Cathedral w/ the Main Altar Depicting Scenes from the Life of St. Catherine of Alexandria & Her Martyrdom (主教大教堂主祭壇·描繪亞歷山大“捍衛者”的聖凱瑟琳“純潔”生平及其殉道場景) Reredos @ Se Cathedral (主教大教堂·祭壇之上裝飾性屏風)

Tombstone-paved Aisle @ Se Cathedral (主教大教堂·墓碑過道) Gilded Chapel Screen @ Se Cathedral
(主教大教堂·鍍金禮拜堂屏風) Elaborate Wooden Altar @ Se Cathedral
(主教大教堂·精美的木製祭壇) Embellished Wooden Screens of Se Cathedral
(主教大教堂·奢華的木製隔板) 
Mural of St. Christopher Carrying the Christ Child @ Se Cathedral (主教大教堂·壁畫《聖克里斯托弗“基督的承載者”懷抱聖嬰》) Sculpture of Sacred Heart of Jesus @ the Yard of Se Cathedral
(主教大教堂庭院·雕塑《耶穌聖心》12-16-2013)
Bendy Tree of Araucaria araucana Symbolic of Growth & Strength in Life's Endeavors outside Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina
(聖卡塔琳娜大教堂的歪脖子·猴謎樹象徵着生命中成長和力量的提升 12-16-2013)
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary in the Mid 16th-Century Renaissance, Manueline, & Gothic Architecture
(玫瑰聖母教堂·16世紀中期文藝復興、哥特和曼努埃爾“葡萄牙晚期哥特”式風格) Ruins of the Bell Tower @ Church of St. Augustine
(聖奧古斯丁“高貴”教堂·鐘樓廢墟) Casa Oliveira Fernandes, 250-Year-Old Indo Portuguese Home
(奧利維拉·費爾南德斯“橄欖樹·勇敢之子”別墅——擁有250年歷史的印度葡萄牙式住宅 12-16-2013) Hosts of Casa Oliveira Fernandes, Currently Inhabited by the 7th Generation of the Oliveira Fernandes Family
(奧利維拉·費爾南德斯別墅——現由其家族第七代成員居住) A Myriad of Antiques, Curios, & Vintage Furniture @ Casa Oliveira Fernandes
(奧利維拉·費爾南德斯別墅——各種古董、古玩和老式家具 12-16-2013) Blue and White Porcelain Collection @ Casa Oliveira Fernandes
(奧利維拉·費爾南德斯別墅——青花瓷收藏 12-16-2013) Rockingham Potteries @ Casa Oliveira Fernandes
(奧利維拉·費爾南德斯別墅——羅金厄姆“岩石村莊”陶器 12-16-2013) Lunch @ Casa Oliveira Fernandes
(奧利維拉·費爾南德斯別墅——午餐 12-16-2013) Fishing Boats @ Betim (貝廷的漁船)
Carnival Casino Goa, the Only Semi-Legal in the “Offshore Zone” on the Mandovi River, Flowing next to Panaji,the Capital of Goa
(果阿嘉年華賭場·游弋在果阿邦首府帕納吉“船溪”曼多維河“近海區”唯一半合法區域上的賭場) Fruit-Veggie Market in Panaji
(帕納吉·果蔬市場 12-16-2013) Fruit-Veggie Market in Panaji (帕納吉·果蔬市場)
Indian Hand-Knotted Rug in Silk & Cotton w All on a Quilted Cotton Ground, Surrounded on 4 Sides by Fringe of Silk & Gilt Thread
(印度手工編織絲綢和棉質地毯·全部鋪在絎縫棉布地上,四面環繞絲綢和鍍金線流蘇 12-16-2013) Portuguese Goa Carpet Embroidered in Shaded Satin & Polychrome Silk Threads, Highlighted in Silver & Gold Couched Laid Work, Lined
(葡萄牙果阿地毯·採用漸變緞紋和彩色絲線刺繡,以銀色和金色凸起的鋪墊工藝製成,帶襯裡 12-16-2013)
The School (學校)
Fishing Village (漁村)
Cashew Plantation (腰果種植園)
Red-Head Turkey w/ Suspended Nose
(帶有懸浮鼻子的紅頭火雞) Hindu Temple (印度教寺廟)
Auto-rickshaw or Tuk-Tuks in Front of a Temple
(寺廟前的自動人力“嘟嘟”車) 
Casino of Nautica Oceania (“大洋·航海”號遊輪——賭場 12-13-2013) Fitness Ctr of Nautica Oceania
(“大洋·航海”號遊輪——健身中心 12-13-2013) Treadmills of Nautica Oceania
(“大洋·航海”號遊輪——跑步機 12-13-2013) Galleria of Nautica Oceania
(“大洋·航海”號遊輪——畫廊 12-13-2013) Crosslinks(相關博文): India(出遊印度)
Across the Indian Ocean(穿越印度洋) |