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优雅女人系列之一:Coco Chanel 2008-07-30 08:48:27

Gabrielle Bonheur \"Coco\" Chanel (August 19,1883 – January 10, 1971) was a pioneering French Fasion Designer whose modernist philosophy, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her arguably the most important figure in the history of 20th Century fashion. Her influence on haute couture was such that she was the only person in the field to be named on TIME Magazine\'s 100 most influential people of the 20th century.

Founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1910-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.

Certainly her life was unpredictable. Even her death — in 1971, at the age of 87 in her private quarters at the Ritz Hotel - still in harness, still designing, still working.

Chanel spent time as a ward of the state after her mother died and her father ran off. She was looked after by the nuns in the Aubazine orphanage.

She was taken in by the sisters of the convent in Moulins, when she was 17. No doubt their eyebrows raised when the young woman left the seamstress job they had helped her get to try for a career as a cabaret singer. This stint as a performer led her to take up with the local swells and become the backup mistress of Etienne Balsan, a playboy who would finance her move to Paris and the opening of her first hat business. That arrangement gave way to a bigger and better deal when she moved on to his friend, Arthur (\"Boy\") Capel, who is said to have been the love of her life and who backed her expansion from hats to clothes and from Paris to the coastal resorts of Deauville and Biarritz.

One of her first successes was the loose-fitting sweater, which she belted and teamed with a skirt. These early victories were similar to the clothes she had been making for herself — women\'s clothes made out of Everyman materials such as jersey, usually associated with men\'s undergarments.

By the early \'30s she had almost married one of the richest men in Europe, the Duke of Westminster; when she didn\'t, her explanation was, \"There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel.\" Probably the single element that most ensured Chanel\'s being remembered, even when it would have been easier to write her off, is not a piece of clothing but a form of liquid gold — Chanel No. 5, in its Art Deco bottle, which was launched in 1923. It was the first perfume to bear a designer\'s name. A perfect piece of Coco Chanel History in a bottle.

Depending on the source, Chanel\'s return to the fashion world has been variously attributed to falling perfume sales, disgust at what she was seeing in the fashion of the day or simple boredom. All these explanations seem plausible, and so does Karl Lagerfeld\'s theory of why, this time around, the Chanel suit met such phenomenal success. Lagerfeld — who designs Chanel today and who has turned the company into an even bigger, more tuned-in business than it was before — points out, \"By the \'50s she had the benefit of distance, and so could truly distill the Chanel look.

Time and culture had caught up with her.\" In Europe, her return to fashion was deemed an utter flop at first, but Americans couldn\'t buy her suits fast enough. Yet again Chanel had put herself into the yolk of the zeitgeist. By the time Katharine Hepburn played her on Broadway in 1969, Chanel had achieved first-name recognition and was simply Coco.

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