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街头市场 —城市的玉,还是鸡肋? 2006-12-04 12:31:31

街头市场搞好了,能够成为宝玉;搞不好,就是鸡肋。玉,靠养;鸡肋,可有可无。北京街头偶尔可见小贩卷包仓皇逃跑的景象。眼看着这些随地摆摊儿的小贩,确实把个城市管理弄得十分尴尬。

 

街头市场多半是根据地理位置和对商品的需要自生自灭。不方便的地方,就是提供再好的设施,小贩们也不会愿意去。以前一味地把小贩们驱赶到新建的大棚里,加收手续费,效果事倍功半。这些年中国城市的集市管理显然比以前多了经验,彻底清理、\"驱逐出境\"的现象已经大大减少。不过,街头市场还基本上停留在低层次的运转上,距离形成各自的特色还差得远。

 伦敦诺丁山市场躲进小楼成一统

 

看过伦敦旅行手册的人都不难发现,伦敦人引以为荣的除了豪华的白金汉宫、议会大厦和英式园林之外,还有街头巷尾的、在转弯之处展现朴实民风的街头市场。找个土生土长的伦敦人聊天,他可能大言不惭地告诉你他从来没去过伦敦塔, 而且这辈子也不想去。但是,他会坐下来跟你津津有味地侃一侃他所见识的街头市场。

 \"\"闹中取静

 

在伦敦这样的国际性城市中,街头市场之所以有独特的地位,不是因为它们能展示王侯将相的丰功伟绩和财富,而是它们给这个城市带来了人气。人跟人之间的日常交往能为城市创造气氛。如果这种交往是在光天化日之下的,则会使气氛得到进一步的渲染。街头集市恰恰是把这种日常交往公之于众的好地方。不要小看晨露欲滴的苹果鸭梨、泥浆四溅的萝卜白菜,还有满地打滚儿的休闲衣裤。它们是城市生态的有机组成。

我先带你转转几个著名的伦敦街头市场。

伦敦布罗夫(Borough--什么破译名,我宁可叫他煲肉!)市场的菜比超市贵很多,但是随市出售的小吃和可以品尝的样品也多。兴起的时候可以买上一块面包,蘸着隔壁摊儿上的橄榄油,来一两约克郡奶酪,再秤上一盒儿橄榄,边走边吃。去布罗夫市场偶尔能听到放歌剧,市场有顶棚,拢音,效果还不错。一次偶然路过布罗夫市场里的一个大肉摊儿。摊主体形硕大,但是动作从容不慢。我闲来无事,站在一边看他卖肉。也许是老兄生意不错,忽然开口高唱\"欢乐颂\"。我才意识到市场从未放录音。歌声竟然就是这个肉掌柜自己的现宰现卖!听音质和高度,怎么也得是个音乐学院的水平。肉掌柜的胸腔共鸣从那摊儿上大肉的哆嗦中就能看得出来。音到高极,差点把我手里举着的馅儿饼震掉地上: 这要是在国内,至少能弄个\"美声歌手市场卖肉 \"的头版头条。

\"\" 男高音割肉家

 

诺丁山街头市场的名气恐怕比那部同名电影要久远得多。但是大嘴朱丽亚.罗伯茨的追随者往往要在那座蓝色的门和棕色的书店门口照张像。最招人喜欢的还是藏在蔬菜摊后面的大厨书店。书店里都是菜谱和美食鉴赏的书。饿了,还能在仅有的两三张桌子边坐下来,叫一顿女主人亲手做的小餐。饭不讲究,但是就着满目琳琅的大厨书香,那汤的滋味就确实不同。

 

\"\"天上人间

 

金融城在伦敦东部,到了周末,高楼大厦的阴影下,西服领带就换成了背心裤衩和挑担的菜农。有意思的是一家肉摊的拍卖。掌柜的举了一块肉,喊了价就等过路人竞拍,常常可以看到不吃肥肉也要争口气的景象。

东街市场在伦敦东南,特点是价格便宜。一块钱十个二十个的橘子苹果,跟白送也差不多。

 

不同的街头市场吸引了不同的老主顾,也因其特色招来了大批慕名而来的游客。因此,街头集市的作用也不一定局限于买菜做饭,而是城里人和乡下人、本地居民和外来游客摩肩接踵的地方。

 \"\" 床上也有戏

 

伦敦北面恩菲尔德也有著名的市场,有七百年的历史了。待我最近去看,发现就剩了巴掌大的一块地方。菜农不精神,菜也发蔫儿。后来一查才知道,这个七百年的老市即将消失,代之而起的将是现代化超市和购物中心。但是,我深深感到这个地方人气离散。地方政府想靠瓷砖大理石来发展经济,妙手回春的潜力并不乐观(注:最近又去看了,还没撤,听说经过斗争,最终保留下来了)。

 

\"\"

伦敦街头市场的兴衰,倒能给我们提个醒:街头市场可以是块玉,没有金钢水泥耀眼。但是,你对它好了,它能招财进宝。伦敦的街头集市地点和开放时间相对固定,延续了上百年或几百年的时间。就像那玉,时间久远了,才能润。这\"\"字不容忽视。它是市场能够吸引游人的秘密。

中国大城市里也有吸引外来人的街头市场,多数局限于古玩书画。菜市场和小商品市场还不能出人头地。这有街头市场位置调整过于频繁的因素。街头市场聚集人气的能力需要挨足了时日,管理者面对相对固定的摊贩群体处理问题也会更加得心应手。商贩和城管都进入了状态方能\"\"。如果市场不得不今天这儿明天那儿,小贩经营不便,城市生活不便,就免谈润吧。长此以往,街头市场至多是城市的鸡肋留之无大用,弃之嫌可惜,成为城管定期清理的对象。

 

 

\"\"

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作者:Rahul 留言时间:2007-10-19 13:30:46
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作者:Kaleb 留言时间:2007-10-18 19:28:42
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作者:Ezequiel 留言时间:2007-10-17 23:49:31
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作者:Mustafa 留言时间:2007-10-17 04:20:37
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作者:Deandre 留言时间:2007-10-15 16:30:08
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作者:Eddie 留言时间:2007-09-15 19:36:05
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作者:Chaim 留言时间:2007-09-14 18:13:30
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作者:Kennedy 留言时间:2007-09-08 03:27:11
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作者:Max 留言时间:2007-09-07 12:53:29
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作者:Gunner 留言时间:2007-09-06 17:14:56
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作者:Cole 留言时间:2007-09-05 23:51:15
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作者:Ulysses 留言时间:2007-09-05 10:32:29
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作者:Alejandro 留言时间:2007-09-04 20:30:48
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作者:Antonio 留言时间:2007-09-03 18:37:54
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作者:Kareem 留言时间:2007-08-17 19:55:53
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作者:Dwight 留言时间:2007-08-17 10:25:44
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作者:Anibal 留言时间:2007-08-17 00:38:20
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作者:Kole 留言时间:2007-08-16 15:27:32
5146cb90cc6f631ca304a70749f2eb8a <a href="http://del.icio.us/MartezMarrone/dodge"> MartezMarrone </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/JurgensDaron/chevrolet"> JurgensDaron </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/EstevanCrupi/suzuki"> EstevanCrupi </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/MartezMarrone/lamborghini"> MartezMarrone </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/BradlyConniff/volkswagen"> BradlyConniff </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/MartezMarrone/buick"> MartezMarrone </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/MekhiWeglarz/renault"> MekhiWeglarz </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/DreibelbisAnton/cadillac"> DreibelbisAnton </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/LevitanSantos/maserati"> LevitanSantos </a> <a href="http://del.icio.us/PetrusGregory/mazda"> PetrusGregory </a> da8a9325b2abe2a55948db553f6f4dc4
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作者:Isiah 留言时间:2007-07-24 23:58:12
3aafb994f728f83cf0239fe5feae480f <a href="http://club-prive-messina.tzlnou.biz/"> http://club-prive-messina.tzlnou.biz/ </a> <a href="http://canoa-polinesiane.enadzh.biz/"> http://canoa-polinesiane.enadzh.biz/ </a> <a href="http://concorso-asl5-napoli.ygvhik.biz/"> http://concorso-asl5-napoli.ygvhik.biz/ </a> <a href="http://biblioteca-novi.ppdpwx.biz/"> http://biblioteca-novi.ppdpwx.biz/ </a> <a href="http://arena-quotidiano.enadzh.biz/"> http://arena-quotidiano.enadzh.biz/ </a> <a href="http://commerciali-veneto.zibtye.biz/"> http://commerciali-veneto.zibtye.biz/ </a> <a href="http://gioco-piranha-panic.ppdpwx.biz/"> http://gioco-piranha-panic.ppdpwx.biz/ </a> <a href="http://norma-chiusura-infortunio-inail.zibtye.biz/"> http://norma-chiusura-infortunio-inail.zibtye.biz/ </a> <a href="http://prevenzione-nei-luoghi-di-lavoro.zibtye.biz/"> http://prevenzione-nei-luoghi-di-lavoro.zibtye.biz/ </a> <a href="http://offerta-lavoro-dolomiti.ygvhik.biz/"> http://offerta-lavoro-dolomiti.ygvhik.biz/ </a> 69fae163d26a9b1682339a4eb6fc4ad9
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作者:Grant 留言时间:2007-07-23 14:19:44
9702428197c30137e7b75d4aa68db56d <a href="http://ramazzotti-stella-gemella.jnbwct.org/"> http://ramazzotti-stella-gemella.jnbwct.org/ </a> <a href="http://blanco-lavelli.gbdrme.org/"> http://blanco-lavelli.gbdrme.org/ </a> <a href="http://pasta-baronia.jnbwct.org/"> http://pasta-baronia.jnbwct.org/ </a> <a href="http://investimento-low-cost-seeking-polonia.jnbwct.org/"> http://investimento-low-cost-seeking-polonia.jnbwct.org/ </a> <a href="http://scopata-prima.hdpwsk.org/"> http://scopata-prima.hdpwsk.org/ </a> <a href="http://nuda-jumping-jacks.cqhnnx.org/"> http://nuda-jumping-jacks.cqhnnx.org/ </a> <a href="http://luciani-marco.vywyuh.org/"> http://luciani-marco.vywyuh.org/ </a> <a href="http://depeche-moda-live-milan.cqhnnx.org/"> http://depeche-moda-live-milan.cqhnnx.org/ </a> <a href="http://amo-masini.hdpwsk.org/"> http://amo-masini.hdpwsk.org/ </a> <a href="http://piccioni-marco.mnkcbe.org/"> http://piccioni-marco.mnkcbe.org/ </a> eb89aa2351bfb8dd061b0dc25061dcdb
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作者:Jaron 留言时间:2007-07-22 05:48:57
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