2021-10-4

中国市场博物馆里，展览有几件古代丝绸做的裙带。让不知何为裙带关系的观众，大开眼界。一曰凤尾裙。

该绣品为一裙带，蓝色布料下钉有八根花绸制成的绣花长带，绣有福寿花卉纹样，针法以平针为主。裙带下端有云头状纹饰，裙裾飘飘，魅力无边。

乾隆时期的李斗在《扬州画舫录》卷九中记载说，裙式以缎裁剪作条，每条绣花，两畔镶以金线，碎逗成裙，谓之凤尾。

凤尾裙的起源时间不晚于清代中期，虽然在宋代有类似的形制出现，但并不常见，凤尾裙与马面裙、阑干裙、鱼鳞裙、百褶裙构成清代女裙的主要样式。

这一件凤尾裙穿着的时候套在马面裙的外面。以深蓝色皮球花绫为面料，裁剪成六根，下端缀以如意云头。如意头下为三条凤尾，内绣小花纹，用蓝缎滚边。尾部缀有小铃铛，使之走动时叮当作响。

有学者猜测其形制源自萨满法事神裙，随清入关，对当时戏剧服饰产生了一定的影响，进而在民间也渐渐流行开来。库伦萨满服饰的裙饰和凤尾裙的形制十分相似。后来，凤尾裙因独特美丽的凤尾造型和吉祥喜庆的寓意，成为达官贵人家中女子的经典装扮。

这件，就是所谓的马面裙。此裙裙身面料为白色素缎，其上绣出龙凤纹样，其中马面部分为一坐龙，下摆处则龙凤皆有之，颜色以蓝色调为主。裙摆两侧压以细黑素缎，以蓝色素绢做衬里。下摆、马面两侧以黑色素缎镶饰。

此裙称为阑干裙，又作栏杆裙。为大红色皮球花绸底料，裙门、底边、栏杆为黑色镶边，在底边和裙门黑边内和黑边外又分别镶两道蓝色花纹边饰，每条栏杆上都镶黑色白边如意头条带。裙腰为红色。

其实，位于旧金山的亚洲艺术博物馆里，也收藏有一件完整的带栏杆的阑干裙，称清末愯缎檊絏女盾彩绣百益眧。博物馆的介绍说：The lightweight gauzy fabrics and sophisticated decoration of this top and shirt indicate that they were designed for summer wear by a woman of the Chinese upper classes. It is rare to find such an ensemble intact. The top opens down the center; the opening is secured with a pair of buttons twisted into floral shapes and with pendants that feature a combination of openwork and embroidery. This simple garment has elaborate black satin trim on the side seams and elsewhere; the trim is decorated with the head of a wish-granting wand (ruyi) above which floats a butterfly. The gauze is woven with a design of the character for long life (shou) in medallions surrounded by five bats; this grouping represents the Five Blessings (longevity, wealth, health, love of virtue, and a peaceful death). The blue cuffs are embroidered with a bold design of plum blossoms and narcissus a pairing that also represents longevity. The formal pleated skirt is decorated with designs formed by gold and silver threads. Its long, thin pendants with wish-granting symbols sway with the movement of the body.

也就是说，开首第一张图片中的凤尾裙，是阑干裙附带的两个栏杆裙带中的一块，不单独成裙。其它的几个图片中的凤尾裙，也应该大差不差，否则会羞杀古人，无颜出门的。