2021-10-4

中國市場博物館裡，展覽有幾件古代絲綢做的裙帶。讓不知何為裙帶關係的觀眾，大開眼界。一曰鳳尾裙。

該繡品為一裙帶，藍色布料下釘有八根花綢製成的繡花長帶，繡有福壽花卉紋樣，針法以平針為主。裙帶下端有雲頭狀紋飾，裙裾飄飄，魅力無邊。

乾隆時期的李斗在《揚州畫舫錄》卷九中記載說，裙式以緞裁剪作條，每條繡花，兩畔鑲以金線，碎逗成裙，謂之鳳尾。

鳳尾裙的起源時間不晚於清代中期，雖然在宋代有類似的形制出現，但並不常見，鳳尾裙與馬面裙、闌干裙、魚鱗裙、百褶裙構成清代女裙的主要樣式。

這一件鳳尾裙穿着的時候套在馬面裙的外面。以深藍色皮球花綾為面料，裁剪成六根，下端綴以如意雲頭。如意頭下為三條鳳尾，內繡小花紋，用藍緞滾邊。尾部綴有小鈴鐺，使之走動時叮噹作響。

有學者猜測其形制源自薩滿法事神裙，隨清入關，對當時戲劇服飾產生了一定的影響，進而在民間也漸漸流行開來。庫倫薩滿服飾的裙飾和鳳尾裙的形制十分相似。後來，鳳尾裙因獨特美麗的鳳尾造型和吉祥喜慶的寓意，成為達官貴人家中女子的經典裝扮。

這件，就是所謂的馬面裙。此裙裙身面料為白色素緞，其上繡出龍鳳紋樣，其中馬面部分為一坐龍，下擺處則龍鳳皆有之，顏色以藍色調為主。裙襬兩側壓以細黑素緞，以藍色素絹做襯裡。下擺、馬面兩側以黑色素緞鑲飾。

此裙稱為闌干裙，又作欄杆裙。為大紅色皮球花綢底料，裙門、底邊、欄杆為黑色鑲邊，在底邊和裙門黑邊內和黑邊外又分別鑲兩道藍色花紋邊飾，每條欄杆上都鑲黑色白邊如意頭條帶。裙腰為紅色。

其實，位於舊金山的亞洲藝術博物館裡，也收藏有一件完整的帶欄杆的闌干裙，稱清末愯緞檊絏女盾彩繡百益眧。博物館的介紹說：The lightweight gauzy fabrics and sophisticated decoration of this top and shirt indicate that they were designed for summer wear by a woman of the Chinese upper classes. It is rare to find such an ensemble intact. The top opens down the center; the opening is secured with a pair of buttons twisted into floral shapes and with pendants that feature a combination of openwork and embroidery. This simple garment has elaborate black satin trim on the side seams and elsewhere; the trim is decorated with the head of a wish-granting wand (ruyi) above which floats a butterfly. The gauze is woven with a design of the character for long life (shou) in medallions surrounded by five bats; this grouping represents the Five Blessings (longevity, wealth, health, love of virtue, and a peaceful death). The blue cuffs are embroidered with a bold design of plum blossoms and narcissus a pairing that also represents longevity. The formal pleated skirt is decorated with designs formed by gold and silver threads. Its long, thin pendants with wish-granting symbols sway with the movement of the body.

也就是說，開首第一張圖片中的鳳尾裙，是闌干裙附帶的兩個欄杆裙帶中的一塊，不單獨成裙。其它的幾個圖片中的鳳尾裙，也應該大差不差，否則會羞殺古人，無顏出門的。