2011-04-08 
底比斯“权杖之城”,横跨尼罗河中游两岸,是继孟斐斯之后古埃及中王国与新王国时期最重要的都城,距今已有4,000余年。据载,当时城池百座,人口稠密,建筑壮丽,繁荣兴旺,被荷马“盲人”盛赞为“百门之都”。尼罗河东岸为“生者之城”,神庙宫殿连绵不绝,是宗教与政治的中心;西岸为“死者之城”,陵墓连亘,是法老贵族的安息之地。公元27年,一场大地震彻底摧毁了这座古都,如今只剩下残垣断壁,散落在卢克索地区,1979年列入《世界遗产名录》。 底比斯地域不大,集中坐落在形如金字塔的梅雷特塞格尔山脚下。帝王谷、哈特谢普苏特神庙、拉美西斯二世神庙、工匠村、门农巨像、王后谷、哈布城神庙、王亲贵族墓,由北向南纵向排列。如此众多的古迹,若想一一遍览,非得花上几天不可。权衡再三,我们决定乘坐热气球空游底比斯——既可居高临下饱览尼罗河西岸的神奇遗址,又能成全我们不睹不快的迫切愿望。 凌晨五点,天还未亮,我们便搭上头班轮渡从东岸急驶西岸。接应专车旋即转往热气球现场,必须赶在八点太阳升空前发射升空。四月初的阳光已渐显泼辣,若不赶趟,便可能遭受烈焰焙烤的双重夹击——真把人烤成肉饼不成! 帝王谷是公元前1550年至前1080年间新王国法老为防止盗墓而开凿的秘密陵墓,目前已发掘60座。每位法老从登基之日起,便开始为自己修筑来世的居所。1922年,图坦卡蒙陵墓的发现,成为帝王谷中唯一未曾遭受破坏的陵墓,其木乃伊与黄金面具震惊世界。大部分陵墓早已被盗一空,现存珍宝多陈列于开罗博物馆。我们根据导游建议,参观了三座有代表性的陵墓:阿蒙霍特普四世墓的《亡灵书》壁画、拉美西斯六世墓的拱形天文星相穴顶、拉美西斯九世墓的努特天空之神装饰。墓穴结构大同小异:入口通道、几个矮厅、一个石棺室。 哈特谢普苏特是古埃及著名女王,她的陵庙巧妙地修筑在悬崖峭壁上,分三层,外观酷似现代建筑。 拉美西斯二世神庙是他花了20年建造的祭祀中心,面朝东南,背对西北,两个大门、内外两厅、48根石柱围成的祭堂,气势恢宏。 工匠村墓曾是3,500百年前建造法老墓穴的艺术家与工匠们的墓地,从高空望去,破烂的房舍如滑石画出的“跳房”方阵。 门农巨像是两尊高20米的花岗岩坐像,面部已风化模糊。古时每逢刮风,北侧那尊便会发出“竖琴弦断”的声响,据说源于裂缝的热胀冷缩。罗马皇帝塞维鲁于公元199年下令整修,此后便再也听不到那奇妙的“歌声”了。 王后谷已有70余座陵墓。最著名的奈菲尔塔利陵因湿度超标谢绝参观,我们浏览了西特雷与蒂耶的墓穴。 哈布城神庙是拉美西斯三世的皇室居所兼陵庙,外墙浮雕被视为举世无双的杰作。虽未能目睹荷露斯神殿,却有充裕时间细细品味这座古埃及最后一座歌舞升平的遗迹。 王亲贵族墓则巧妙地镶嵌在帝王谷与王后谷之间。 在空中飘游了约40分钟,我们凯旋而归。热气球驾驶员郑重颁发了“古城底比斯飞行”证书——三种文字书写的名字,阿拉伯语从右到左,汉语拼音与英文从左至右,我们高兴得心花怒放。
Today in History(历史上的今天): 2011: 埃及哈布城神殿祭庙(Medinet Habu—Mortuary Temple, Egypt) 2011: 埃及尼罗河游轮(Cruising on the Nile, Egypt)
Meet the Pilot for a Hot Balloon Ride over Thebes
(热气球空游底比斯·与飞行员在一起 04-08-2011) 
Hot-Air Balloon before Take-Off (热气球起飞前 04-08-2011) 
Surprisingly Cool Desert Morning, Even Dropping to Near Freezing (抱团取暖·沙漠早晨气温出奇凉爽,甚至降至临近冰点 04-07-2011) Hot Air Balloon Floating over the Theban Hills, the Historic West Bank of Luxor
(热气球漂浮在历史悠久的卢克索“宫殿”西岸底比斯山脉上空)
Domed House of British Archaeologist Howard Carter's House on the West Bank of the Nile
(尼罗“溪谷”河西岸英国考古学家霍华德·卡特“高贵守护者·旅居者”圆顶故居) Theban Necropolis on the West Bank of the Nile
(底比斯墓地·位于尼罗河西岸) Al-Qurn, a Prominent, Pyramid-shaped Meretseger Mtn Dominating the Theban Hills
(古尔恩“号角”山·雄踞梅雷特塞格尔“亡灵女神”山醒目的金字塔形山峰) Valley of the Kings, the Primary Royal Burial Site for Pharaohs & Powerful Nobles during Ancient Egypt's New Kingdom (1539–1075 BCE)
(帝王谷·公元前1539年—公元前1075年间古埃及新王国时期法老和权贵的主要皇家陵墓地)
King Tut in the Centre @ Tomb of Tutankhamun, Valley of the Kings
(帝王谷图坦卡蒙“太阳神的活像”陵墓·图坦卡蒙国王位居中心)
Exquisite Reliefs & Paintings Adorning the Tomb of Tutankhamun, a Pharaoh of the 18th Dynasty, @ Valley of the Kings
(帝王谷第18王朝法老图坦卡蒙的陵墓·饰有精美的浮雕绘画) Relief of Pharaoh Ramses I Making an offering of Incense to the Gods @ Tomb of Ramses, Valley of the Kings
(帝王谷拉美西斯“太阳神拉之子”墓·法老拉美西斯一世向众神献香浮雕) 
Relief of the God Horus @ Tomb of Ramses III, Valley of the Kings (帝王谷拉美西斯三世陵墓·荷鲁斯神浮雕) 
Relief of the Pharaoh @ Tomb of Ramses III, Valley of the Kings (帝王谷拉美西斯三世墓·法老浮雕)
Murals @ Tomb of Ramses IV, Valley of the Kings
(帝王谷拉美西斯四世陵墓·壁画) The Book of Gates Describing the Journey of a Deceased Soul through the Underworld @ the Tomb of Seti I, Valley of the Kings
(塞提“暴力之神”一世陵墓《塔门之书》·描述亡灵穿越冥界的旅程)
Exquisite Reliefs & Paintings Adorn Pharaoh Sety I's Tomb
(法老塞提一世陵墓·饰有精美的浮雕与壁画)
Valley of the Queens, the Royal Necropolis of the Wives, Children, & High-ranking Nobility of the pharaohs Buried during the New Kingdom Period (circa 1550–1070 BCE)
(王后谷“美丽之地”·约公元前1550—1070年间新王国时期法老的妻儿及高阶贵族安葬的皇家陵寝) Bas Relief @ Tomb of Prince Amenherkhepshef or Amenkopshef, Valley of the Queens
(皇后谷·阿蒙科普谢夫“太阳神用他强有力的手臂”王子墓的浅浮雕)

North Wall w/ a Continuation of the Book of the Dead, Chapter 17 @ the Antechamber of Tomb of Nefertari, the Beloved Wife of Pharaoh Ramesses II, Valley of the Queens (王后谷法老拉美西斯二世的爱妻奈菲尔塔利“仙女”墓前厅·北墙附有《亡灵书》第十七章的续篇) Ra, Shu, & the 4 Sons of Horus @ Tomb of Nefertari
(纳菲尔塔利的陵墓·太阳神拉、风之神舒和荷鲁斯“鹰头神”的四个儿子)
Tomb of Nefertari, Sistine Chapel of Ancient Egypt
(奈菲尔塔利陵墓·古埃及的西斯廷“第六”教堂) Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Showing the Height of the Cliffs beyond
(哈特谢普苏特“贵妇王后”陵墓·对比背后悬崖的高度) Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Featuring Multiple Levels of Colonnaded Porches Set against Massive Limestone Cliffs in Deir el-Bahari
(哈特谢普苏特陵墓·多层柱廊门廊依偎在代尔巴哈里“至圣所”巨大的石灰岩悬崖上) Colonnaded Terrace @ Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut
(哈特谢普苏特陵墓·柱廊露台)
Goddess Nekhbet, Guardian of Upper Egypt, in the Form of a Vulture Carrying a Protective Amulet @ Chapel of Anubis, Hatshepsut Mortuary Temple
(哈特谢普苏特祭庙阿努比斯“死亡神”神殿·上埃及守护神奈赫贝特“秃鹫女神”) Hatshepsut, Queen of Egypt, Presenting an Offering to the God Horus @ Hatshepsut Mortuary Temple
(哈特谢普苏特陵墓·埃及皇后向荷鲁斯神献上祭品)

Polychrome Relief of Ra, Sun God, @ Hatshepsut Mortuary Temple (哈特谢普苏特陵墓·太阳神拉彩色浮雕) Relief of Egyptian Offering Wine @ Hatshepsut Mortuary Temple
(哈特谢普苏特陵墓·埃及祭祀葡萄酒) Exquisite Reliefs & Paintings Adorning the Tomb of Nefertari, Pharaoh Ramesses II's Great Wife
(法老拉美西斯二世妻子奈菲尔塔利的陵墓·装饰精美的浮雕绘画)
Sennefer on Right Receiving a Ritual @ Tomb of Sennefer, Tombs of the Nobles
(贵族塞内弗“完美兄弟”墓·右侧的塞内弗正在接受仪式) Wall Paintings @ Tomb of Roy, End of the 18th Dynasty, Tombs of the Nobles
(贵族罗伊“国王”墓葬·18王朝末期壁画) God Anubis in His Form of Sacred Jackal Crouching upon a Bldg @ Tomb of Roy, Tombs of the Nobles
(贵族罗伊墓葬·阿努比斯神以其神圣豺狼的形态蹲伏在建筑物上)

Road to Ramesseum on the West Bank of the Nile (通往拉美西斯神庙的公路·位于尼罗河西岸) Ramesseum, the Magnificent Mortuary Temple of Pharaoh Ramesses II
(拉美西斯神庙·拉美西斯二世法老宏伟的陵庙) Workmen's Village of the King's Craftsmen & Artists Building the Tombs of the Theban Necropolis @ Deir el-Medina
(工匠村·建造底比斯墓地的技工手艺人村)
Wall Painting of the God Anubis Performing the Opening of the Mouth Ritual on Pharaoh @ Tomb of Nebenmaat @ Deir el-Medina Tombs (Worker Tombs)
(工匠墓壁画·阿努比斯神为法老举行开口仪式) Amennakht (Early Ramesside Period), the 1st to Build 1 of 3 Tombs Belonging to a Single Family, w/ All Accessed via a Single Entrance
(拉美西斯王朝早期的阿曼纳赫特“强大的太阳神”·第一个建造三座陵墓之一的人,这些陵墓属于同一个家族,且所有陵墓都通过同一个入口进入)
Hot-Air Balloon over Thebes (热气球空游底比斯)

Flame of Hot-Air Balloon (热气球·火焰)
Hot Balloon Silhouette (热气球剪影)
Boat-Lined Boulevard on the Nile
(尼罗河上小船成列的大道)
Part of Village of Old Gurna Nestling @ the Foothills of the Theban Hills
(底比斯山麓脚下老古尔纳“狮子居所”村一角) Hot-Air Balloon over Thebes (热气球空游底比斯)
Nabi Musa or the Tomb of the Prophet Moses
(纳比穆萨“先知摩西”之墓) West Town in Thebes, an Archaeological Site西城·底比斯考古遗址
Residential Area, Housing Typically Consisted of Mudbrick Structures
(居民区·房屋通常由泥砖结构构成) Straw-Thatched Cottage on the West Bank of the Nile
(尼罗河西岸草屋) A Flock of Sheep & Shepherds (羊群与牧羊人)
Curious Kids on the Ground (地面上好奇的孩子们)
Crew, Greeting Hot-Air Balloon Riders back
(欢迎热气球归来的地勤人员) Get-Off Hot-Air Balloon (返回地面 04-08-2011)
Farmland on the West Bank of the Nile
(尼罗河西岸·农田 04-08-2011) Colossi of Memnon, 2 Massive Stone Statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III
(门农巨像·两个法老太阳神三世巨型石雕)

Hot Balloon Certificate (乘坐热气球证明)
Crosslinks(相关博文): 埃及(Egypt) Africa (漫游非洲) 小学二年级(2nd Grade)
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