2008-02-05 
自离家不远的费城机场启程,不出四个钟头,我们就可以直接抵达波多黎各(意指“富港”)自由邦的首都圣胡安——富港城,实际算起来要比从东海岸飞往西海岸便捷得多,当然票价随季节上下波动,经常居高不下,甚至有过之而无不及。 其实说白了,富港是美国的自由邦,除了棕榈婆娑的海岸线和植被茂盛的内陆山区尚保留其国度原有的自然风貌之外,本土文化严重承袭西班牙殖民传统,政治主权深受美利坚控制,经济生活饱尝合众国邻邦恩赐。没错儿,大树底下好乘凉!无论从哪方面来看,富港当属大小群岛(Greater & Lesser Antilles)最富裕的国家,把它视作“加勒比黄金珠宝”恐怕早已成为不争的事实。
富港城是西半球继多美尼加共和国圣主城之后第二位古老首府,身为富港最繁华的都市,既有马德里征服者富丽堂皇的气派官邸──城堡宫(La Fortaleza),又有巴塞罗纳鹅卵石铺就的狭窄街道──月亮路,兼有帝都(Toledo)地势险峻的两座军事工事──海角城堡和陆行守护神堡垒,更有尊者城(San Sebastian)逶迤蜿蜒的避风港湾──郡滩浴场(Condado Beach),就连巴掌大小的古城老区都历史悠久人文丰富,因此名胜古迹浩如烟海,我们身临其境,不由得触景生情,一种重归西班牙王国的感觉涌上心头。
百加得酿酒厂是富港最大的古巴朗姆酒(意指“大骚动”)生产基地,以甘蔗为原材料,经发酵、蒸馏、提取、橡木桶存放到产品包装,我们到此不光为了实地参观标准俗套的制酒工艺,能够尽情遍尝“蝙蝠”标记的各种品牌才是我们最大的心愿。百加得经典、黑百加得甘醇、金百加得激情、柠檬百加得时尚、百加得八年华贵、百加得151o浓烈,后者酒精纯度竟高达75.5%,纯粹上乘烈酒!据说百加得与皇冠伏特加(Smirnoff)、绝对伏特加(Absolut)、约翰走路威士忌(Johnnie Walker)、可乐高球(Jack Daniel's)、芝华士威士忌(Chivas, 意指“河流隘口”)、茴香调味开胃酒(Ricard)、酩悦香槟(Moët & Chandon)、人头马白兰地(Remy Martin)和马爹利白兰地(Martell)同属世界十大名酒,在稍后的酒会茶点上,我们决定亲自试用百加得调出的自由古巴(Rum and Coke)、古巴高球(Mojito)和大吉利(Daiquiri)等世界著名鸡尾酒,从中选出适合自己口味的最佳排名。
这里有一广为流传的故事,说得是国际知名作家海明威在创造《战地钟声》(For Whom the Bell Tolls)、《逃亡》(To Have and Have Not)以及《老人与海》(The Old Man and the Sea)时曾点过用白朗姆酒调配的“大吉利”,并把古巴英雄啤酒(Hatuey Beer)引入三部著作中,1956年海明威获得“诺贝尔文学奖”之后,百加得公司闻讯欣喜若狂,特意为他举办了声势浩大的庆祝活动。的确,“大吉利”相对温和甘醇,比较适合我们的口感。
海边游泳是我们访问富港城另一重大企划。二月立春前后,地处大西洋沿岸的康大多海滨浴场虽不像我们居住的费城地区寒风刺骨,也不像加勒比海温暖如春,准确地说更像兼容两者地域之差,无风三尺浪!年近五岁的孩子本想披波斩浪激流勇进,不料却被我们下榻的万豪国际酒店集团救生人员好心劝阻。看来今后若想冬季畅游富港,我们最好涉足首都以外的地方:月缺之际,小岛荧光生物湾(Vieques Island Biobay)绝对独放异彩;月圆之时,阳都海滨(Luquillo)倒是不错的去处。 
San Juan Bay (富港湾) 
Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino (万豪度假酒店与星空赌场) 
The Pool of Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino (万豪度假酒店与星空赌场 01-27-2008) 
Atlantic Stroll (大西洋踏浪 01-27-2008) 
Atlantic Shore (大西洋海岸 01-27-2008) 
Condado Beach (郡滩 01-27-2008) 
Capitol Bldg @ San Juan (富港城·国会大楼 02-03-2008) 
Frescoes @ Capitol Bldg (国会大楼·浮雕) 
Rotunda Mosaics @ Capitol Bldg (国会大楼·圆形镶嵌拱顶) 
Georgia Marble in Renaissance Style @ Capitol Bldg (国会大楼·文艺复兴式乔治时期大理石) 
Painting @ Capitol Bldg (国会大楼·绘画)

Columbus Plaza (哥伦布“鸽子”广场) 
Ballaja Plaza (军营广场) 
Telluric Totem @ Ballaja Plaza (军营广场·大地图腾)

Statue of Christopher Columbus @ Plaza Colon (圣灵广场——哥伦布雕像)

Statue of Paseo de la Princesa (雕塑《信徒》)

Bacardi Rum Distillery (百加得朗姆酒厂)

Lobby @ Bacardi Rum Distillery (百加得朗姆酒厂·大厅) 
Exhibition Hall @ Bacardi Rum Distillery (百加得朗姆酒厂·展览厅 02-03-2008) 
Rum Bucket @ Bacardi Rum Distillery (百加得朗姆酒厂·郎姆酒桶)

Fermentation Tank @ Bacardi Rum Distillery (百加得朗姆酒厂·发酵罐) 
Bacardi Rums (百加得朗姆酒) 
Bacardi Superior (百加得陈酿)

Castillo San Felipe del Morro & Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery (海角堡与圣衣会修女公墓 02-04-2008) 
Castillo San Felipe del Morro (海角堡) 
Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery by the Atlantic Ocean (大西洋边圣衣会修女公墓) 
Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery (圣衣会修女墓地)

Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery (圣衣会修女墓地)

Watch Tower @ Castillo San Felipe del Morro (海角堡·瞭望塔 02-04-2008) 
Cannon Balls @ Castillo San Felipe del Morro (海角堡·炮弹 02-04-2008) 
Lighthouse @ Castillo San Felipe del Morro (海角堡·灯塔) 
Iconic Garita @ Castillo San Felipe del Morro (海角堡·标志性岗亭) 
Fort San Cristobal (陆行守护神堡垒 02-04-2008) 
The Flags of the United States, Puerto Rico, & the Spanish Empire Floated over Castillo San Cristóbal (飘扬在陆行守护神堡上的美国、富港和西班牙帝国国旗) 
Barracks @ Fort San Cristobal (陆行守护神堡·兵营) 
Officer Quarters @ Fort San Cristobal (陆行守护神堡·官营 02-04-2008) 
Devil's Guerite @ Fort San Cristobal (陆行守护神堡·魔鬼岗亭) 
Solider's Quarter @ Fort San Cristobal (陆行守护神堡·战士营房) 
Direction Plaques over Rooftop (房顶上路标) 
Tijuana's Bar & Grill (珍妮大婶酒吧烧烤 02-04-2008) 
City Wall w/ Garita (城墙与岗亭)
Paseo de la Princesa, One of the Most Scenic Walkways In the World (公主大道·世界上风景最美的人行道之一) 
Raíces Fountain (根喷泉 02-05-2008) 
Façade @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·正面观) 
The Nave @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·中殿) 
Domes @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·穹顶) 
Altar @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·祭坛) 
Arched Ceiling @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·拱顶) 
Transcept @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·耳堂) 
Virgin of Providence @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·上帝之母) 
Stained Glass @ San Juan Cathedral (富港城大教堂·花窗) 
Pigeon's Park (鸽子公园 02-05-2008)

San Juan Bautista Cathedral (富港城浸信会大教堂 02-05-2008) 
Calle del Cristo (基督街)

Calle de la Fortaleza (要塞街 02-05-2008) 
Pedestrian Street in Old Town (老城·人行道) 
Calle de la Luna (月亮街) 
Calle de la Luna @ Plaza Felisa Rincón de Gautier (月亮街与女市长广场交汇处 02-05-2008) 
Plaza Felisa Rincón de Gautier (女市长广场) 
City Hall (市政厅) 
The Municipal Government Bldg (市府大楼) 
La Fortaleza, Governer's Mansion (城堡宫·总督下榻) 
Hotel El Convento (修道院酒店) 
Dos Harmanos Bridge (哥俩桥)
Crosslinks(相关博文): 航游加勒比海(Carribean) 幼儿班(Preschool) |