2024-06-13 Saint Anthony Festival 
【Like A Mist (Tenho em mim como uma bruma)】 Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) I have in me like a mist That nothing is or contains Longing for nothing, The desire for any good.
I'm wrapped by it As through a fog And I see the last star shine Over the tip of my ashtray.
I smoked my life. How uncertain All I saw or read! And the whole world is a great open book That smiles at me in an unknown tongue. —— • —— • —— • —— • —— • —— • —— • —— 【《我心中泛起一团薄雾》】 (葡萄牙)冒险者·佩索阿“法人”(1888生—1935卒) 【红霞译】 我心中泛起一团薄雾 梦幻飘渺甚至包含 对虚无的渴望, 对美好的期待。
我被笼罩其中 亦如身置迷雾, 看到最后一颗星辰闪耀 在烟灰缸的烟头上。
我抽了一辈子烟。很难确定 所看到的乃至所读过的一切! 而整个世界就是一本翻开的巨著 用一种未知的语言对我微笑。 【注】几天前,亦即抵达葡萄牙首都里斯本“附魔港”的前两天,我通过旅行者(Viator)公司网站订购了地接导游,由于早已得知出游的星期四是圣安东尼“无价圣徒”日(St. Anthony's Day),信仰天主教的附魔港人几乎全部放假,因此我特意选择声称坚守岗位的地陪。昨天我接到邮件,通告包括导游名字、接头地点、会面时间甚至预付金额在内的确认信息,看来万事俱备只欠东风。今天上午10:00整,我和闺蜜如约在游轮码头外等候,但半个小时过后仍不见人影,我们幡然领悟到计划赶不上变化!因为随身携带的手机没有境外电话服务,就连免费热线(1-800-Toll-Free)都打不通,我只好跟旁边负责码头接待的小哥借用当地手机,当小伙子看到电话号码时满腹狐疑,难道这不是美国号码吗?更让他意外的是从前楞不知晓自己竟然有10分钟免费国际通讯的红利,而问题在于10分钟用来向不善言英文的附魔港人陈述根本无济于事,还没等说明缘由就断了线,鉴此我赶紧抓住第二个年轻人,开门见山说借用你10分钟免费国际通话跟Viator客服打交道,这才弄清楚原本同意接单的当地老表临时歇工溜号,决定回归教堂烧香拜神,结果让被放了鸽子的我们茫然失措。好在身处附魔港,码头周围拉客出游的个体遍地开花,尤其印度阿三趁机抢占旅游市场,就这样我们随便上了一辆本地特有的敞篷三轮机动车——嘟嘟车(Tuk Tuk),开始穿梭鹅卵石街道异常陡峭的七山之城。 这里提到的无价圣徒(生于1195年葡萄牙附魔港—卒于1231年意大利帕多瓦,1232年封圣;纪念日6月13日)既是方济各会“济贫施善”修士,也是穷人的忠实守护神;葡萄牙很多地方和意大利帕多瓦市都尊称他为守护神,并祈求他归还失物。 早波刚平,午波又起!待旅游结束到了付款时,我才发现随身携带的信用卡(Citi Costco Visa)在附魔港取不了现金,就近试过4—5不同银行的自动提款机依然事与愿违,而同行的闺蜜出国又不爱带卡上路,急得印度阿三无法可施,最终只能接受刷卡结账。嗨,旅游的不确定性何尝不是人生的写照? 无巧不成书!1996年6月我曾乘火车从法国南下葡萄牙,应该说这是28年间故地重返。虽然葡萄牙号称欧洲最古老的民族国家,附魔港被视为继希腊雅典之后欧洲第二老首都,其生活成本却在西欧垫底(最穷的都府)。值得骄傲地,全世界共有包括澳门在内的九个国家或地区以葡萄牙语为官方语言。 附魔港崇尚“高尚与忠诚”(Very Noble & Always Loyal),拥有常人对这座背负数百年文化历史前行的欧洲首府所有的想象,而我们的足迹将落在蜿蜒陡峭的1840年鹅卵石弄堂、中世纪城堡勾勒出的古都天际线、阿尔法玛“温泉”区(Alfama)源远流长的19世纪20年代法朵“命运”(Fado)音乐,贝伦“面包房”的1837年葡式蛋挞(Pastéis de Belém/Nata),14世纪开始流传的蓝彩锡釉瓷砖(Azulejo),…… Today in History(历史上的今天): 2024: Monast.of Sao Vicente de Fora, Portugal(葡萄牙圣文生修道院) 2024: Lisbon's Sacred Sites, Portugal(葡萄牙里斯本·附魔港圣地) 2024: Belém Complex in Lisbon, Portugal(葡萄牙里斯本·贝伦建筑群) 2016: Overview of Seventh Grade(初二巡礼) 2012: Descriptive─Letter(应用文─书信) Oceania Marina Debarked @ Lisbon Cruise Port or Jardim do Tabaco Quay
(“大洋·滨海”号游轮停靠附魔港游轮港口码头) Sea of Straw, a Bay in Its Shimmering Waters
(稻草海·波光粼粼的海湾 06-13-2024) Sanctuary of Christ the King-Portugal Inspired by the Christ the Redeemer Statue of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil
(葡萄牙基督君王圣殿·灵感来自巴西里约热内卢“一月河”的基督救世主雕像) Statue of José I Mounted on His Horse Gentil Unveiled w All Due Pomp & Circumstance on 6th June 1775, the King´s BD @ Commerce Square
(商业广场·1775年6月6日国王的生日当天,《骑着骏马的何塞“上帝倍增”一世》雕像隆重揭幕) Arco da Rua Agusta Marking the Entrance of the Modern City @ Commerce Square
(商业广场庄严街凯旋门·标志进入现代城市的通道) São Bento Palace the Seat of the Assembly of the Portuguese Republic & the Parliament of Portugal in Neoclassical Completed in 1938
(圣本笃“福报”宫·1938年建成、新古典主义风格的葡萄牙共和国议会和葡萄牙议会所在地) Editory Riverside Santa Apolónia Hotel in 1865
(建于1865年的漫步河畔太阳神酒店) View of the Graça District (恩惠区景观)
Azulejos, a Way of Retelling Popular Stories Like the Fables of La Fontaine or of Recording Portuguese History Like the Siege of Lisbon in 1147
(瓷砖·重述流行故事的一种方式,例如喷泉的寓言传说;或记录葡萄牙历史,例如1147年的附魔港围城战)
Miradouro de Santa Luzia Offering Dramatic Views of Lisbon & the Tagus River
(从光明圣徒观景台欣赏附魔港滴河的壮丽景色) Azulejo Tile w/ Map of the Alfama Neighborhood
(温泉居民区瓷砖地图) Urban Art w/ the Work of André Saraivia, a Portuguese Visual Artist
(葡萄牙视觉艺术家“男子汉·冰雹”创作的城市公共艺术) 
Statue of Saint Vicente, the Patron Saint of Lisbon (雕像《征服圣徒》·附魔港守护神) São Jorge Castle, a Panorama of the Entire Battlements
(农夫圣徒城堡·城垛全景)
São Jorge Castle w/ the Walls & Towers, Constructed during the Moorish Occupation
(农夫圣徒城堡及其城墙和塔楼·建于摩尔“阿拉伯”人占领时期) Palácio Azurara, Museu de Artes Decorativas
(旧时的奴隶制宫,现为装饰艺术博物馆) Central Lisbon University Hospital Center
(附魔港中央大学医学中心)
A City of Exotic History & Breathtaking Vistas
(一座拥有奇异历史和壮丽景色的城市) View of Red Roofs from the Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen in the Alfama District
(从温泉区葡萄牙诗人作家观景台饱览红色屋顶) Panorama from Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte
(从山中圣母观景台欣赏居民区全景) 
Trams in Lisbon Since 1873 (自1873年以来的附魔港有轨电车) Road Climbed Up & Bent Round to a Spectacular Panoramic View of the City Emerge
(沿着蜿蜒攀升的马路可以欣赏到城市壮丽的全景)
My Story Hotel Figueira (无花果园我的故事酒店)
Tuk Tuk in Front of Statue Luís Camões, Portugal's & the Portuguese Language's Greatest Poet @ Luis de Camões Square
(嘟嘟车经过“勇将·卡蒙斯”广场·葡萄牙和葡萄牙语最伟大的诗人雕像) Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation vs Church of Our Lady of Loreto near Largo do Chiado, a Square Known for Its Theaters, Shops, Bookstores, & Cafés
(圣母化身教堂与月桂林圣母教堂·地处剧院、商店、书店和咖啡馆充斥的尖叫广场) Rua dos Correeiros or Postmen Street (邮递员街 06-13-2024)
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Church of Saint Mary Magdalene w/ Church Portal, a Manueline Trefoil Arch in Manueline Built in 1833 (高塔圣母教堂及其教堂门廊·建于1833年、葡萄牙晚期哥特式三叶形拱门) Praça Dom Pedro IV or Rossio Sq,
(国王磐石四世广场·大型公共广场 06-13-2024) 
Column of Pedro IV (磐石四世纪念柱) 
Santa Justa Elevator in Neo-Gothic Built in c. 1899
(公平圣徒电梯·大约建于1899年,新哥特式)
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Fountain of Carmo (神园喷泉) 
Monument to Eduardo Coelho Portuguese Writer, Journalist, & Founder of the News Daily @ Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara in Bairro Alto (葡萄牙作家、记者兼《新闻日报》创始人“富裕守卫·兔子”纪念碑——位于上城区的大桥磐石圣徒观景台) Rua de S. Paulo (谦恭圣徒街)
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Rua de S. Paulo w/ View of an Arch Bridge (谦恭圣徒街·拱桥景色) Fado Vadio Mural @ Steps of Saint Christopher of Mouraria/Moorish Quarter
(摩尔人区鸽子圣徒台阶·壁画所在地正是葡萄牙民族“命运音乐”的发源地) 
Audouin's Gull (地中海“角落”海鸥) Crosslinks(相关博文):
Portugal(出游葡萄牙)
Europe(欧洲掠影) |