2011-04-07 
尼罗河一定长过天河,否则何以有如此绵绵不绝的神话?古埃及人不嫌其久,不嫌其玄,也不嫌其多——哈罗里斯、索贝克、阿努比斯、伊西斯、哈索尔……众神皆从水中走出。康翁波双神庙,便是这样一座同时祭奉鹰首神荷鲁斯与鳄鱼神索贝克的“双神殿”。 它坐落在尼罗河南岸,周围农田绿洲环绕。每年七月十五,河水泛滥,为河谷村庄覆上一层厚厚的淤泥,土地肥沃,庄稼一年三熟。四月上旬我们到访时,正值努比亚人的丰收季节——玉米棒子沉甸甸地低垂,甘蔗顶着花帽,轻歌曼舞,窈窕摇曳。 康翁波神庙融合了托勒密王朝与希腊罗马的建筑风格:罗马式大门、希腊式多柱前厅、古埃及式神明祭祀,各成双对。一条中轴线将其对称地分为两半,左边供奉鹰首神,右边祭祀鳄鱼神。石柱上精细地刻着代表上埃及的莲花与下埃及的纸莎草。 神庙还有几处独特之处:石块之间留有榫接的痕迹;祭堂背后的大型壁画上,刻着纪念印和闐的手术刀与医疗器械;对面的浮雕则记录了尼罗河潮涨潮落的日期与日月经纶的年历。哈索尔礼拜堂中,陈列着从附近墓地发掘的四十具鳄鱼木乃伊。 参观完毕,刚过八岁的娃儿有感而发,写下了一篇简短的旅行见闻。 【Aiden in English】 Wow! Egypt has a lot of history. Perhaps the Temple of Kom Ombo is large because it holds a significant amount of history. That's not entirely accurate. Every temple has a Hypostyle Hall, and so does the Temple of Kom Ombo. I think there are four rows of columns with mostly no color painting. Over thousands of years, the color had seemed to fade from the walls. Many columns on the left side of the temple featured lotuses, which stood for Upper Egypt, while some columns on the right had papyrus, representing Lower Egypt. The ancient Egyptians built walls by putting limestone blocks next to each other, and then they drew and carved on the walls. They also added hieroglyphs and cartouches to the drawings and carvings. There is a story about two gods named Osiris and Seth. It is about the Key of Life. The Key of Life, carved on the slabs, is often in front of your mouth, which shows that the spirit comes out from your mouth when you die. The story originated from a tale that Osiris was a benevolent god, and his brother, Seth, Osiris's archenemy, was considered evil. Seth wanted to kill Osiris. He pretended to do it adequately. He said whoever fitted into the tomb would die inside. Osiris tried it first, and Seth closed the lid hard. Osiris was suffocated and died soon. Seth knew if the body wasn't destroyed, Osiris would then come back to life. So he chopped it up into pieces and threw it all in different places. Osiris's wife, Isis, turned into an ibis bird and flew all over the world. In Egypt, she finally found every piece except his penis. But she made a penis from a spell, and Osiris was reborn. 【红霞译】
怪哉,埃及有这么多历史!康翁波双神庙之所以雄伟,无非是因为它的厚重?其实不然。〖注〗康翁波双神庙面积不大。 每一个庙宇都有多柱厅,康翁波双神庙也不例外,我记得它有四排雕刻的石柱,几千年过后,上面的颜料已褪得跟从来没有着过色一样,其中左侧刻有藕莲花的石柱代表“上埃及”,而右侧雕有纸莎草的则代表“下埃及”。古埃及人喜欢用石灰石建筑墙壁,一个捱一个,接着画幅图刻张像,末了再用圣书体的象形文字和皇帝徽章点缀一番。 康翁波双神庙有一个关于冥界神和乱世神的传说故事,新生复活常常出现在石板雕像人物的嘴前,表示当离开人间,他(她)的灵魂从嘴里超渡出来。冥王神奥西里斯是善良的天神,而弟弟混沌神赛特却是他的敌人,名符其实的恶魔,赛特想要篡权夺位杀死哥哥奥西里斯,便想出一个绝恶办法,引诱奥西里斯躺进一口棺材,然后将棺材关紧把奥西里斯活活憋死,因为赛特知道如果不销毁尸体,那么奥西里斯必将复活,于是赛特将奥西里斯的尸体剁成碎块扔到埃及各个角落。奥西里斯的妻子救世女神伊西斯闻讯立刻变成一只朱鹭四处寻觅,最后终于如愿以偿,唯一不幸的是奥西里斯的生殖器未能找到,但伊西斯念来咒语,使奥西里斯重获新生。
Today in History(历史上的今天): 2011: 埃及尼罗河游轮(Cruising on the Nile, Egypt) Stop by Keffiyeh, Shemagh, Gutra & Hijab before Visiting Temple of Kom Ombo
(参观康翁波“黄金之山”前游览自由市场·方头巾、提花头巾、白头巾、盖头 04-07-2011)
Popular Gazeboes @ Flee Market
(自由市场·流行的凉亭 04-06-2011) Double Entrance to Kom Ombo Temple w/ Unique Dual Symmetry
(康翁波双神庙双门·独特的双重对称性 04-07-2011) Cornice Detail Gate of Neos Dionysos w/ Preserved Papyrus Shaped Column & Ceiling
(托勒密“好战”十二世新狄俄尼索斯“酒神”城门檐口细节·拥有保存完好的纸莎草形柱和天花板)

Gate of Neos Dionysos (托勒密十二世新狄俄尼索斯门) Overview of the Dual Temple of Horus & Sobek
(荷鲁斯“复仇神”与索贝克“鳄鱼神”双神庙·概览 04-07-2011)
Preserved Papyrus Shaped Column & Ceiling
(保留下来的纸莎草柱和天花板 04-07-2011) Forecourt, Courtyard of Sobek and Haroeris
(索贝克与哈罗里斯“鹰首”即老荷鲁斯神庙前院 04-07-2011) 
Vestibule (前厅 04-07-2011) 
Sanctuary of Sobek Built During the Ptolemaic Dynasty (180–47 BC) (索贝克圣殿·建于公元前180—47年托勒密王朝 04-07-2011) 
Hypostyle Hall, Decorated w/ Hieroglyphs Depicting Scenes from Ancient Egyptian Mythology (多柱厅·柱子上装饰着描绘古埃及神话场景的象形文字 04-07-2011)

Pillars Made from Black Granite (石柱·由黑色花岗岩制成 04-07-2011)

Hypostyle Hall in Symmetry & Reliefs (多柱厅·对称与浮雕 04-07-2011) 
Wall w/ Reliefs (带浮雕的墙壁 04-07-2011) Temple of Sobek and Haroeris
(索贝克和哈罗里斯神庙)

Wall Relief @ Temple of Sobek and Haroeris (索贝克和哈罗里斯神庙·浮雕) Cartouches @ Lintel (过梁上王室徽章)

Roof (屋顶) 
Column of Hypostyle Hall (多柱厅·石柱) 
Well-Preserved Frieze (保存完好的饰带 04-07-2011) 
Close-up of the Frieze (饰带·近景) Chapel of Hathor Associated w/ Love, Joy, & Motherhood
(哈索尔“爱之女神”礼拜堂·供奉着与爱情、欢乐和母爱有关的女神) Mammisi or Birth House Dedicated to Osiris & Isis for Their Son Horus
(玛米西“诞生殿”·献给奥西里斯“冥王神”和伊西斯“救世女神” 04-07-2011)
Ancient Graffito, Carved Hieroglyphic Inscriptions & Deity Standards
(古代涂鸦·象形文字雕刻和神明标准) Ptolemy VI Philometor Making an Offering to the Gods @ Kom Ombo
(托勒密六世在康翁波向神献祭)

Cleopatra Image (克利奥帕特拉“天父荣耀”)

Cartouche Ptolemy XII (托勒密十二王室徽章)
Carved in Scalpels, Forceps, Scissors, & Medical Apparatus plus Prescriptions & 2 Goddesses Sitting on Birthing Chairs
(手术刀、钳子、剪刀等医疗器械上饰物与处方和坐在产椅上俩女神) Reliefs of Haroeris, the Falcon God & Sobek, the Crocodile God
(鹰首神哈罗里斯与鳄鱼神索贝克浮雕) 
Calendar, Displaying the Figures for Each Day of the Month & the Hieroglyphs for the Inundation Season, Akhet. On the 30th of the Season of the Harvest, Hieroglyph for the Season of the Emergence, Indicating the End of the Harvest Season. Akhet, the Next Day. (日历显示了当月天数以及水灾的象形文字,在收获季节的第30天,可以看到汛期季节的象形文字,它表示收获季节的结束,接下来第二天便是水灾。) Hieroglyphic Calendar (日历象形文字 04-07-2011)
Sobek w/ Typical Attributes of Kingship, Including a Was-Sceptre and Royal Kilt w/the Ankh in His Hand Representing His Role as an Osirian; He, Aler, & His Crown, a Solar Crown Associated w/ One of the Many Forms of Ra
(具有王权典型特征的鳄鱼神,包括王权和王室短裙,手中生命之钥代表他作为丰产神救主角色,头上皇冠与诸多形式的太阳神相关) Ptolemy IX Being Purified by Thôt & Horus
(托特“智慧之神”与荷鲁斯净化托勒密九世) Falcon-headed God Horus & Crocodile God Sobek, Performing a Purification Ritual for a Pharaoh
(鹰头神荷鲁斯与鳄鱼神索贝克为法老进行净化仪式)
Ancient Nilometer, a Circular Well Used on Rhoda Island, Especially During the Season of the Flooding of the Nile
(古尼罗“溪谷”河水位计·位于罗达“玫瑰”岛上的圆形水井,主要在尼罗河汛期使用) 
Nubian,Indigenous to the Central Nile Valley Spanning Southern Egypt & Northern Sudan (努比亚“黄金”人·生活在尼罗河谷中部、横跨埃及南部和苏丹北部的土著群体) Nubian,Policeman & Guide (努比亚人、警察与导游)
School Kids on Field Trip(课外见习的小学生)
Crosslinks(相关博文): 埃及(Egypt) Africa (漫游非洲) 小学二年级(2nd Grade)
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