2013-01-04 
【Aiden in English】
Two weeks flew by on the cruise, and before I noticed, Mom and I were leaving the ship in the "Paris of the South"—Buenos Aires for good. We booked a day tour to La Recoleta Cemetery in the metropolitan center and the Argentine Estancia in the countryside. We drove through Palermo, the largest neighborhood, with a lovely district of parks, gardens, mansions, and embassies in front of us. However, most of our tour today was based on La Recoleta Cemetery. It looked like little architecture in a small world, with over 6,400 beautifully crafted mausoleums. It made us explore Baroque, Neoclassical, Neo-Gothic, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco styles with each crypt. The grand graves made the cemetery excellent and extensive. If I walked in alone, I would never walk out of the same entrance again! In 2013, CNN listed it as one of the world's top 10 most beautiful cemeteries. There were many notable Argentine personages in La Recoleta Cemetery. Maria Eva Duarte de Peron was one of them, and the Argentines used to call her Evita. Evita became the First Lady after her husband, Juan Peron, was elected the Argentine President. She advocated for women to win the right to vote and helped working-class people have a better life. When Evita died of cancer at the age of 33, her body was initially kept in the President's Residence. But some opponents hated her husband after he lost his power and tried to destroy her body. So, her coffin was moved to Italy. Not until years later was Evita brought back to her motherland and buried in a black marble tomb there. I had not known anything about Evita before. However, a sweeping melody sounded influential when Madonna sang "Don't Cry for Me Argentina" about her passion. Once out of the city, we entered the dustiest place across the Pampas I had ever been. The bus drove over an unpaved dirt road and cast specks of dust into the fresh air. We came to an Estancia or ranch where the timeless traditions of the Argentine gaucho are lovingly preserved. The gauchos originally came from vagabonds or orphanages and were used to roam the Pampas and work cattle for life. They generally dressed in a woolen poncho, neck-fastened bandana, pleated trousers, and long leather boots, and had no home or belongings other than what they carried on horseback. Some artists danced to popular folkloric music and looked like they were twisting their heels until they broke. Unlike tango, the lead and follow kept all movements at a distance and never had a close embrace to connect chest-to-chest in such a folkloric dance. There was a nice horsemanship racing competition among the gauchos. The object was to catch a ring on horseback with a little stick. I couldn't believe that a gaucho caught the ring three times straight. Before noon, I practiced riding a horse. It wasn't tough after I got used to it. When a traditional Asado al Asador or the gaucho-style country barbecue was served for lunch, featuring famous Argentine beef, I had no stomach for anything but computer games. The folkloric dancers performed one last time after everyone else was stuffed to the gills with food. Finally, we had to say farewell and return to the bus. We were sent to the hotels instead of returning to the cruise ship, and I was pretty sure this would add to my memorable cruise experience. 【紅霞譯】
兩個星期遊輪上的良辰美景不覺已近尾聲，我和媽媽將在“南美巴黎”布宜諾斯艾利斯“好空氣”下船，並於今天安排了一日游，打算前往位於市中心的雷科萊塔“回憶”公墓和郊區阿根廷農莊遊覽觀光。
旅遊大巴從首都巴勒莫“寬灣”區穿過，公園、花壇、別墅、大使館簇擁排列在道路兩旁，我們此行主要為了參觀名揚全球的雷科萊塔公墓，那裡有巴洛克式、新古典式、新哥特式、新藝術流派、新學院風格等大大小小的陵園超過6,400，建築設計獨具匠心，墓地本身很大，假如我獨自一人進來轉悠，恐怕連回去的路也找不到，2013年美國有線電視新聞網將此地列為世上十大最漂亮的“永久家園”。 阿根廷許多名門望族都長眠於雷科萊塔公墓，瑪麗亞·伊娃·杜阿爾特·庇隆即阿根廷人心目中的艾薇塔“生命”就是其中一位，艾薇塔因丈夫胡安·庇隆“神慈·磐石”出任國家總統而成為阿根廷第一夫人，不僅積極為婦女贏得選舉權力，而且還幫助勞動階層改變生活狀況，33歲那年死於癌症，其遺體曾一度保留在總統官邸，後因庇隆政府被推翻、反對黨試圖清除殘餘勢力而不得不“移居”意大利，直到數年後才重返家園並安葬在眼前這個黑色大理石墓地之中。此前我並不了解艾薇塔，但對反映艾薇塔心聲、由麥當娜悲情演唱的《阿根廷別為我哭泣》印象深刻。
離開雷科萊塔公墓後，我們長驅直入布宜諾斯艾利斯郊外，盛夏之際，素有“糧倉肉庫”美譽的彭巴斯“平原”“黃雲翠浪千千畝”。大巴行駛在廣闊天地，身後掀起層層塵土，幾乎遮住了半個天空，我們造訪的阿根廷農莊至今仍保留雇用南美草原牛仔──高楚人“流浪者”的傳統習俗，這些牛仔多來自被遺棄的孤兒，流浪於草原各地，靠放牛謀生，別看他們身着羊毛披風，頸套手帕，燈籠褲外加長皮靴，實際上除馬背上丁點盤纏之外其它一無所有。與此同時，農莊請來兩位藝人為我們表演民族舞蹈，他們的腳後跟好像一直不停地旋轉，直到轉不動為止，與探戈不同，領舞與伴舞之間始終保持距離，兩人從不胸對胸緊密貼在一起。
高楚人馬術比賽令我激動，每位參賽者坐在馬背上，快速疾馳將吊掛的指環套在手上拿的小木棒上，我簡直不敢相信，有一位竟能連中三次，接下來輪到我騎馬溜彎，好不逍遙。午餐時大家開始享用高楚人烤肉串，可我沒啥胃口，只好靠玩電子遊戲充飢，酒足飯飽之後舞蹈家再度登台獻藝。 終於到了告別時刻大家依依不捨，直至乘車返回酒店住地才逐漸正視現實，這下真的要各奔東西，我們只能把遊輪留下的美好記憶銘刻心中。
Today in History(歷史上的今天):
2011: 報復心理(Revenge)  Recoleta Cemetery Renowned for Its Elaborate Mausoleums & Statues, Making It a Significant Cultural & Historical Site
(雷科萊塔國家公墓·以其精美的陵墓和雕像而聞名，成為重要的文化和歷史遺蹟) 
Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, Completed in 1732 (紀念柱聖母大教堂·1732年竣工)
The Art-Rich Site w/ Famous Mausoleums, Reflecting the Wealth & Status of the Families (著名藝術性陵墓·反映家族的財富和地位 01-04-2013) 
Paz Family Tomb in Black Stone Structure (帕茲“和平”家族之墓·黑色石頭結構)
Paz Family Tomb in the Art Deco Style Adorned w/ White Marble Angels in a Turn-of-the-20th-Century dress (帕茲家族之墓·學院派式，建有身着20世紀服飾的白色大理石天使 01-04-2013) 
Eva Peron's Tomb, a Place of Pilgrimage (伊娃·裴隆之墓——朝聖地) 
Evita's Resting Place in the Duarte Family Mausoleum (艾薇塔的安息之地·杜阿爾特“財富的守護者”家族的陵墓) 
Familia de Francisco Gomez Decorated w/ the Most Photographed Angel (弗朗西斯科·戈麥斯“自由人·人類之子”家族之墓——飾有最上鏡的天使) 
Tomb of General Miguel Estanislao Soler, Incorporated Allegorical Figures Representing Military Action, Victory, & Argentina Itself (阿根廷獨立戰爭米格爾·埃斯塔尼斯勞·索萊爾將軍之墓——融入了象徵着軍事行動、贏得勝利以及阿根廷本土的寓言人物) 
Tomb of French-Born Colonel Federico de Brandsen Fought for Argentina in the War w/ Brazil (法國出生的費德里科·布蘭森上校之墓——在阿根廷與巴西的戰爭中代表阿根廷作戰)
 Lawyer & Politician Valentín Alsina @ L & Writer Florencio Varela
(左：律師與政治家瓦倫丁·阿爾西納 右：作家弗洛倫西奧·巴雷拉) 
Lawyer, Businessman, & Landowner Ramón López Lecube, the Only in the Country w/ 2 Sculptures Located on the Sides of Its Front Door (律師、商人和地主拉蒙·洛佩斯·勒庫貝“保護·狼之後代·立方體”——全國唯一一座在正門兩側有兩座雕塑的陵墓) 
General Pablo Riccheri Served as Minister of War for the Modernization of the Army & Compulsory Military Service (巴勃羅·里基耶里“謙卑·力量”將軍——推動軍隊現代化和義務兵役制)
Argentine Estancia Woven into the Very Fabric of the Country's History (阿根廷農園·其故事深入交織在該國歷史的肌理之中 01-04-2013)  Family Rm @ Estancia (農園·家庭室 01-04-2013)
 Kitchen @ Estancia (農園·餐廳 01-04-2013)
 Horsemanship Demo @ Estancia
(農莊·騎術表演 01-04-2013)
 Meet the Performer @ Estancia
(農莊·與表演者見面 01-04-2013) 
Gaucho @ Estancia (農莊·南美草原牛仔 01-04-2013)  Horse Ride @ Estancia (農莊·騎馬 01-04-2013)
 Asado al Asador @ Estancia
(農莊·阿薩多“金屬框架”烤爐烤肉串 01-04-2013)  Chacarera Folkloric Dance Before Lunch @ Estancia
(農莊·午餐前查卡雷拉“農夫”民間舞表演)  Chacarera Folkloric Dance After Lunch @ Estancia
(農莊·午餐後查卡雷拉“民間舞蹈與音樂”表演)
Chacarera Dancer @ Estancia (農莊·查卡雷拉舞者 01-04-2013)  Floralis Genérica, Probably the World's 1st Mobile Public Sculpture Controlled by Hydraulics & Photoelectric Sensors
(雕塑《阿根廷鋼花》·可能是世界上第一個由液壓和光電傳感器控制的移動公共雕塑)  Monument to the Spaniards Commemorating the Centenary of Argentina's Independence from Spain & Symbolizing the Cultural Ties Between the Two Nations
(《西班牙人》紀念碑·紀念阿根廷脫離西班牙獨立一百周年，象徵兩國之間的文化聯繫) 
Monument to the Magna Carta and the Four Argentine Regions or Monument to the Spaniards w/ Symbolic Figures Representing the Country's 4 Main Regions: the Andes, the Pampa, the Chaco, and the Río de la Plata (《大憲章和阿根廷四大地區》紀念碑即《西班牙人》紀念碑·刻象徵該國四大主要地區的人物：安第斯“高聳的山脊”山脈、潘帕斯“草原”、查科“低地平原”和普拉塔“銀”河流域) 
Monument to Eva Peron @ National Library (位於國立圖書館的《伊娃·裴隆》紀念碑) 
Monumento al General Carlos Maria de Alvear (《卡洛斯·瑪麗亞·阿爾維爾“自由人·摯愛·光明之地”將軍》紀念碑) 
Column of the Persian Temple @ Islamic Republic of Iran Square (伊朗伊斯蘭共和國廣場·波斯“分隔”神廟柱)
Persepolis Column Depicting Double-Headed Animals (波斯石柱·描繪雙頭動物) 
Monument to Justo José de Urquiza Symbolizing His Role as a Military Leader & Historical Figure (《胡斯托·何塞·德·烏爾基薩》紀念碑——象徵着他作為軍事領袖和歷史人物的豐功偉績)
Hercules the Archer 《射手赫拉克勒斯“大力神”》 
Bust of Alberto Lagos, an Argentine Sculptor & Ceramist (《卡洛斯·泰斯“高貴·湖泊”》半身像——阿根廷雕塑家和陶藝家)  Plaza Republic of Ecuador, Home to Artistic Sculptures & Fountains
(厄瓜多爾“赤道”共和國廣場·藝術雕塑和噴泉的所在地)
 Monument to José de San Martín, Worldwide, at least 54 Equestrian Statues of José de San Martín, including at least 40 Replicas, Almost All of Them Being Copies of this Statue in Buenos Aires
(《何塞·聖馬丁“神助·戰神聖徒”》紀念碑——全世界至少有54座何塞·聖馬丁騎馬雕像，其中包括至少40座復製品，幾乎所有復製品都是布宜諾斯艾利斯這座雕像的復製品) 
Monument to Roque Saenz Pena, an Argentine Politician & Lawyer (阿根廷政治家兼律師《羅克·薩恩斯·佩納“休憩·神聖后裔·岩石”》紀念碑)
 Bar & Grill (酒吧和燒烤店)
 Dinner @ Bar & Grill
(酒吧和燒烤店·晚餐 01-04-2013)  Los Talleres (烤肉台)
 Yerba Mate, a Traditional South American Beverage Made from the Dried Leaves of the Ilex paraguariensis Plant
(馬黛茶“葫蘆草”·由巴拉圭冬青干葉製成的傳統的南美飲料 01-04-2013) Crosslinks(相關博文): Argentina(出遊阿根廷)
South America(漂流南美洲) |
