2024-06-14 National Movie Night
【I'm beginning to know myself (Começo a conhecer-me)】 Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) I'm beginning to know myself. I don't exist. I'm the space between what I'd like to be and what others have made me, Or half of this space, since there's also life… That's me, after all… Turn off the light, shut the door, and get rid of the slipper noise in the hallway. Just let me be at ease and all by myself in my room. It's a shoddy universe. —— • —— • —— • —— • —— • —— • —— • —— 【《我开始认识自己》】 (葡萄牙)费尔南多·佩索阿“旅行者·角色” (1888生—1935卒) 【红霞译】 我开始认识自己。我并不存在。 我是我想成为的我和别人眼中的我之间的裂缝， 或者半裂，因为灵魂尚在…… 就这样，到头来…… 熄掉灯，关上门，甭管走廊里的拖鞋噪音。 让我在家独享宁静。 虚骄的天地万物。
【注】日落时分，波尔图“海港”像一本从杜罗“金”(Douro)河上缓缓翻开的书，朴素古老却又富丽堂皇。夕阳将整座城市染成金色——杂乱无章的中世纪遗迹、依山而建的彩色房子、横跨河面的钢铁大桥，都在暮色中变得温柔起来。狭街窄巷交织的历史古城之外，当代建筑师也留下了独特的印记：简约时尚的当代艺术博物馆以白色几何线条对话古老石墙，前卫的音乐厅如外星来客降落在城市中心。公共艺术随处可见，从地铁的手绘瓷砖到破旧墙壁上的街头工艺——艺术不再被锁在博物馆里，而是流淌在每一条街道上。 悠闲早午餐的复古咖啡馆里，阳光透过百叶窗洒在桌布上；创意佩蒂斯科“开胃点心”(Petisco)开胃点心的酷炫小酒馆，总能在深夜留住不愿离去的人群；大西洋鲜鱼价格亲民的塔斯卡“口袋”(Tasca)家庭酒吧，一盘子烤沙丁鱼配上一杯绿酒，就是最地道的波尔图味道。当然，最不能错过的，是杜罗河谷畔的加强葡萄酒——波尔图酒(Vinho do Porto)。对岸盖亚“大地之神”新城的酒窖一排排一座座，如守护神般俯瞰河面，让吃喝玩乐这件事从未如此充满刺激。而波尔图式牛肚杂烩，更是这座城市灵魂的味觉化身：白豆、牛肚、各色内脏，加香料慢炖，浓稠鲜美——一碗下肚，便能尝出古老、至尊与忠诚。 波尔图人有个外号，叫“吃牛肚者”。14世纪，恩里克“领主”(Henrique)王子准备征服休达时，波尔图人献出所有肉类给舰队，自己只留下牛肚充饥。从此，牛肚便成了这座城市的徽章——不是耻辱，是慷慨的印记。坐在杜罗河畔，我端着那碗浓稠的牛肚杂烩，忽然觉得它不只是一种食物。它是一种姿势：把最好的给人，把剩下的留给自己，然后在剩下里，照样做出一桌盛宴。夕阳已经落下，盖亚新城的酒窖亮起暖黄的灯，倒映在河面上像一枚枚浮动的印章。波尔图没有用辉煌的宫殿来标榜自己——它用一碗牛肚、一杯波尔图酒、一条窄巷尽头的烤沙丁鱼，告诉每一个路过的人：真正的富足，不在于你拥有多少，而在于你愿意把什么分出去。而这座城市，已经把最好的一部分，分给了那些早已离开的人——剩下的，才留给我们这些过客。我们吃下的，正是那份被慷慨喂养过的历史。 1996年，波尔图载入联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》。 Ancient, Most Noble, Always Loyal and Undefeated. Today in History(历史上的今天):
2024: Braga, the Religious Ctr of Portugal(葡萄牙宗教中心·马裤城) 2024: Sé de Braga, Portugal(葡萄牙最古老的布拉加“马裤”城大教堂) 2024: Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga, Portugal(葡萄牙山上仁慈耶稣) 2024: Guimaraes, the Birthplace of Portugal(葡萄牙诞生地·名望城) 2015: Archaeological Site of Pompeii, Italy(意大利庞贝古城) 2015: Lemons in Capri, Italy(意大利卡普里“山羊”岛的柠檬) 2012: Descriptive─Fables(想象文─童话故事)  Ribeira, a Historical District of Porto
(里贝拉“河畔”区·波尔图历史中心 06-14-2024)  Ribeira Area along the River Douro, Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site
(杜罗河沿岸的里贝拉区·联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》的一部分)  Ribeira Quarter Built along the Hillside Overlooking the Mouth of the River Douro, Forming an Exceptional Urban Landscape
(里贝拉区依山而建，俯瞰杜罗河口，形成独特的城市景观)  Vila Nova de Gaia Carrying the Rich Heritage of Wine-Making
(盖亚新城·传承着丰富的酿酒遗产)  Dom Luís I Bridge in 2-Hinged Double-Deck Arch Completed in 1886
(多姆·路易斯“国王·勇士”一世大桥·1886竣工的两个铰链双层拱桥)  View of Liberdade Square w/ Monument to King Peter IV Inauguration in the 16th Century
(自由广场与国王彼得四世纪念碑·十六世纪落成)  Sé do Porto, Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady in Romanesque, Gothic，& Baroque Completed in 1737
(波尔图大教堂·1737年竣工，罗马式、哥特式和巴洛克式圣母升天建筑风格)  Altar of Porto Cathedral (波尔图大教堂·圣坛)
 Cloister of Porto Cathedral (波尔图大教堂·回廊)
Church of São Francisco in Gothic w/ Baroque Main Portal & Gothic Rose Window of the Main Façade Completed in the 15th Century (哥特式圣方济各教堂·建于15世纪，主门为巴洛克式，主立面设哥特式玫瑰窗)  Inner View of the Church of São Francisco Showing the Gilt Woodwork of Altarpieces, Ceiling & Columns & the Moulding Decorated w/ an Arca
(圣方济各教堂内部视图·展示祭坛画、天花板和柱子的镀金木制品以及方舟壁饰)  Church of Saint Ildefonso in Proto-Baroque Completed in the 18th Century
(圣伊尔德丰索“准备战斗”教堂·建于18世纪，原始巴洛克“不规则”风格) 
Clérigos Tower @ 75-m/246-tt, a Landmark for Sailors & the Tallest in Portugal (被视为水手地标的教士塔·高75米/246英尺，葡萄牙最高塔)  Monasterio da Serra do Pilar in Renaissance & Mannerist Built in 1672
(柱山修道院·建于1672年，文艺复兴与矫饰主义风格)  Igreja do Carmo in the Rococo Style Built in the Mid-18th Century, Exteriorly Boasted w/ a Tile Mosaic & Connected to the Baroque Igreja dos Carmelitas Descalços Constructed in 1628 by Casa Escondida, the Narrowest Bldg in the World
(建于18世纪中叶、洛可可风格的卡莫“神园”教堂，外部饰有瓷砖镶嵌画，并经世界最窄的隐居民宅楼与建于1628年、巴洛克风格的赤足卡梅尔“神园”教堂相连)  Main Altar of Igreja dos Carmelitas Descalços
(赤足卡梅尔教堂·主圣坛)  Formerly Palácio da Bolsa or Stock Exchange & Now the Porto Chamber of Commerce in Neoclassical Style Built in the 19th Century
(建于19世纪证券交易宫·现为波尔图商会)  Palácio da Bolsa, Moorish Revival Arab Room w/ 2 Inscriptions of With the Divine Support of God & Glory to the Late Mary II
(证券交易宫·摩尔“穆斯林”复兴式阿拉伯房间，有两块铭文“上帝的神圣支持"和“荣耀归于已故的玛丽‘仁爱’二世”)  Casa da Musica, the Distinct Polygon of the Concert Hall Inaugurated in 2005
(音乐之家·独特的多边形音乐厅，2005年对外开放)  Casa de Serralves, the Museum of Contemporary Art Combining Neoclassical, Romantic & Art Deco Elements Completed in 1944
(塞拉尔维斯“庄园”别墅·融合新古典主义、浪漫主义和学院派装饰元素的当代艺术博物馆，于1944年竣工) 
Livraria Lello, the Lello Bookshop in Neo-Manueline Opened in 1881 (莱罗“上帝治愈”书店·新葡萄牙晚期哥特式风格，1881年开业)  Sao Bento Train Station w/ ca 20,000 Azulejo Tiles, Dating from 1905 to 1916
(圣本笃“赐福”火车站·饰有约2万块瓷砖，可追溯到1905年—1916年)  McDonald's, a Former Emblematic Historic Bldg in the 1930s w/ the Amazing Art Deco Stained Glass Windows & Chandeliers Inaugurated in 1995
(1995年开业的麦当劳“世界统治者之子”快餐店·前身为20世纪30年代标志性历史建筑，拥有奢华的学院派装饰风格彩色玻璃窗和枝形水晶吊灯)  Majestic Cafe Porto, Belle Epoque-Era Cafe w/ an Ornate Interior Featuring Carved Wood, Mirrors & Chandeliers
(波尔图宏伟咖啡馆·美好年代逸风，内饰华丽，配有木雕、镜子和枝形水晶吊灯)  Gaia's Grand Port Cellars
(盖亚女神巨型港口酒窖 06-14-2024)  Murals @ Rua de Miguel Bombarda
(米格尔·邦巴达“神似·鱼漂”街·著名革命家的街头壁画)  Matosinhos, Cruise Terminal @ the Port of Leixões on the Estuary of the Leça River North of Oporto
(马托西纽斯“小房子”港·位于波尔图以北莱萨“明亮”河口的莱克索斯“小岛”港游轮码头)  Breakwater Lighthouse @ Matosinhos
(马托西纽斯港·防波堤灯塔)  Sculpture Tragedy of the Sea in the Honor of Sail Men Who Died in a Terrible Storm @ Matosinhos
(马托西纽斯港·纪念在可怕风暴中丧生的雕塑《航海者海上悲剧》) 
Statue of Passos Manuel, Minister & Secretary of State of the Affairs @ Matosinhos (马托西纽斯港·葡萄牙王国事务大臣兼国务卿《帕索斯·曼努埃尔“台阶·上帝与我们同在”》雕像)  Breakfast @ Oceania Marina (“大洋·滨海”号游轮——早餐)
 Lunch @ Sameiro Maia, Braga
(布拉加“马裤”城萨梅罗·玛雅“圣母之地圣母”餐厅——午餐) 
Dinner @ Oceania Marina (“大洋·滨海”号游轮——晚餐) 
Tripas or Tripes (牛肚)  Bird of Paradise (鹤望兰)
 Solitude Rose (灌木月季)
Winter Begonia (冬秋海棠) Crosslinks(相关博文):
Portugal(出游葡萄牙)
Europe(欧洲掠影) |
