2011/04/03-04
从开罗“胜利者”飞往沙姆沙伊赫“教长湾”，只需一个小时。飞机越过苏伊士“开端”运河后，很快便进入山峦起伏的西奈“荆棘”半岛。苏伊士运河1869年竣工，是亚非两洲的分界线，却因扼守欧洲至印度洋及西太平洋的最短航道，在政治、经济与军事上举足轻重。埃及为收回运河主权与英法以周旋数10年，直至1956年才收归国有。西奈半岛北临地中海，东接亚喀巴“山口”湾，西连苏伊士湾，南濒红海。南部的西奈山被犹太教、伊斯兰教和基督教共奉为圣地——据《出埃及记》记载，摩西在此领受“十诫”，自此西奈山又被称为摩西“拉出”山。 因娃儿尚小，我们并未打算攀登这座神峰。若真要去，需深更半夜驱车三小时到山脚，摸黑攀援19世纪的崎岖山径，再花三小时走完8公里/5英里长、3,750级台阶的圣路——山顶至少2,000米/6,562英尺高处，四月初也须忍受零下四度的严寒。未能效仿摩西磨练意志、亲睹“造化钟神秀”的日出，终究有些不甘——但山脚下的圣凯瑟琳“纯洁”修道院，却是一处心向往之的所在。这座远离尘世的希腊东正教修道院建于公元527年，藏有2,000幅圣像，图书馆仅次于梵蒂冈“先知”，存有3,000多册手抄善本。那丛被视为“燃烧的荆棘”的青翠植物，据说与摩西当年所见同株。院内“摩西之井”让人想起摩西在此遇到未来妻子的旧事。每日午前钟声一响，牧师宣道，列队祷告的信徒可获一枚银戒——娃儿一听便犯了难，他压根儿不知道东正教是什么。 从沙姆沙伊赫到修道院，单程三小时，导游须提前一周向军方申办通行证明，沿途要经过七道由军警把守的哨卡。因西奈半岛地处贝都因“露宿街头者”部落腹地，旅行社还特意安排一位西服革履的贝都因壮汉随行——这是2011年埃及当局为确保游客安全而做出的规定。回程途中，导游拐到达哈卜“黄金”小镇，我们在葡萄藤下就着水烟用餐，远眺沙特阿拉伯富得流油的山脉。沙姆沙伊赫依山傍海，纳马“愉悦”湾沙滩细腻平缓，距我们下榻的希尔顿度假村仅几步之遥——而被软禁在附近的埃及前总统穆巴拉克“吉祥”，便在不远处寓居。傍晚我们赤足沿着海边追逐落日，不知不觉溜达到古城集市，贝都因的银饰格外亮眼。那天晚上娃儿躺在床上，把五块西奈山的石头一字排开，说：“妈妈，摩西看到的是火，我看到的是石头。但我们在同一个地方。”——我点点头，没有告诉他，3,000年过去了，山还是那座山，只是来看山的人换了。他手里的石头，也许曾经滚落在摩西的脚边。而那个关于自由与律法的故事，还会被下一代的孩子们，以他们自己的方式重新听见。 1984年，圣凯瑟琳地区载入联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》。 Today in History(历史上的今天): 2009: 玩具(Toys)  Sharm El Sheikh International Airport
(沙姆沙伊赫国际机场 04-03-2011)
 Gateway to the Monastery of St. Catherine in the Sinai Peninsula
(通往西奈半岛圣凯瑟琳“纯洁”修道院的山路 04-04-2011)  St. Catherine's Monastery, Built Between 548 & 565, the Oldest Active Eastern Orthodox Monastery in the World
(建于公元548年—565年间的圣凯瑟琳修道院·世上现存最古老的东正教修道院)  St. Catherine's Monastery @ the Foot of Mt. Sinai, the World's Oldest Continuously Inhabited Christian Monastery
(西奈“荆棘丛”山脚下圣凯瑟琳修道院·世上持续有人居住的最古老的基督教修道院 04-04-2011) 
St. Catherine's Monastery in the Byzantine Style Architecture (圣凯瑟琳修道院·拜占庭“东罗马”建筑 04-04-2011)  Monk Garden @ St. Catherine's Monastery
(圣凯瑟琳修道院·和尚花园)  Biblically Significant Site where Moses is said to have encountered the Burning Bush @ St. Catherine's Monastery
(圣凯瑟琳修道院·据说摩西曾在这里遇见燃烧的荆棘 04-04-2011) 
A Monk, Wearing a Traditional Eastern Orthodox Monastic Habit w/ Skufia & Cassock to Reflect a Life of Simplicity & Devotion @ St. Catherine's Monastery (圣凯瑟琳修道院·身着传统东正教长袍、戴着斯库菲亚“软边无檐帽”的僧侣 04-04-2011)
 Chamber of Skulls, a Store Room for the Bones & Skulls of Deceased Monks, Served as a Powerful Reminder of the Transient Nature of Life & the Inevitability of Death for the Monks @ St. Catherine's Monastery
(圣凯瑟琳修道院头骨室·存放已故僧侣骨头和头骨的房间，旨在强烈提醒僧侣们生命无常，死亡无可避免) 
St. Catherine's Monastery Sacred to Christianity, Islam, and Judaism (圣凯瑟琳修道院·基督教、伊斯兰教和犹太教的圣地 04-04-2011)  Great Basilica of the Transfiguration @ St. Catherine's Monastery, Retaining Many Original 6th-century Features, including Lebanese Cedar Wood Doors & Granite Columns
(圣凯瑟琳圣修道院显圣容大教堂·保留了许多六世纪原始特征，包括黎巴嫩雪松木门和花岗岩柱)  Tiny Niche in a Wall of God-Trodden Mount Sinai St Catherine Monastery w/ Fresco of Virgin Mary w/ Byzantine Patterns
(上帝踏足的西奈山圣凯瑟琳修道院小壁龛·带有拜占庭图案的圣母玛利亚壁画)  Curator @ St Catherine Monastery
(圣凯瑟琳修道院庭院·解说员)
 Courtyard of St Catherine's Monastery, Depicting Moses leading His People out of Egypt
(圣凯瑟琳修道院庭院·描绘摩西带领他的人民离开埃及 04-04-2011)  Well of Moses @ St Catherine's Monastery, the well where Moses encountered the 7 daughters of Jethro & where he met his future wife, Zipporah, recounted in the Book of Exodus
(圣凯瑟琳修道院摩西之井·据《出埃及记》，摩西在这口井遇见了叶忒罗“卓越”的七个女儿，并在那里遇见了他未来的妻子西坡拉“麻雀” 04-04-2011)  St Catherine's Monastery, the Place where Moses received the Tablets of the Law
(圣凯瑟琳修道院·由此摩西得到神授法板) 
Ten Commandments Inscribed on Tablets of the Testimony by the Finger of God (上帝亲手刻在法版上的《十诫》)  St Catherine Monastery w/ the Oldest Iron in the World
(圣凯瑟琳修道院·世上最古老的烙铁 04-04-2011)  Willow Peak in the Sinai Peninsula & Trail To Moses Mount @ Mt. Sinai
(西奈半岛·柳峰与通往西奈山的步道 04-04-2011)
 Scenic Road, Winding through the Arid, Rocky Landscape of the Sinai Peninsula
(风景优美的公路·蜿蜒穿过西奈半岛干旱多岩的地貌)  Camel Jaywalk @ Mt. Sinai Highway
(西奈山高速公路·骆驼横穿马路)  Sinai Desert, Featuring a Prominent Red Sandstone Rock Formation
(西奈沙漠·醒目的红色砂岩地貌)
 Bedouin Cave Dwelling @ Sinai Desert
(西奈沙漠·贝都因住所近景)  Bedouin Village, Possessing Its Nomadic lifestyle， Herding Livestock & Living in Tents Made from Camel & Goat Hair
(贝都因村落·游牧生活·放牧牲畜，居住在用骆驼毛和山羊毛制成的帐篷里)  Wadi Isbaiya, Rich in Copper & Sulphide Mineral Deposits
(萨拜亚“狮子”山谷·富含铜矿和硫化物矿 04-04-2011)  Bedouin, the "People of the Tent" @ Sinai Desert
(西奈沙漠贝都因人·帐篷之民 04-04-2011)
 Mount Sinai | Jabal Musa or Mount Moses | Mount Horeb, the Sacred Site where the prophet Moses received the Ten Commandments & heard God speak from a burning bush
(西奈山·犹太教、伊斯兰教和基督教的圣地 | 穆萨“摩西”山·盛产花纹考究的花岗石 | 何烈“干燥”山·先知摩西在此圣地接受了十诫，并在燃烧的荆棘丛中聆听了上帝的旨意 04-04-2011)  Red Sandstone Mountains & Expansive Sandy Plains
(红色砂岩山脉和广袤的沙质平原 04-04-2011)  Formal Isreal Checkpoint @ Mt. Sinai Highway
(西奈山高速公路·旧时以色列边境检查站)  Car Accident against the Traffic @ Mt. Sinai Highway
(西奈山高速公路·马路对面车祸)  Dahab @ Gulf of Aqaba, the Diving Capital
(亚喀巴湾达哈卜城·潜水之都)  Naama Bay of Red Sea, w/ Golden Sandy Beaches & Clear Turquoise Waters
(红海·纳马湾·拥有金色的沙滩和碧绿的海水 04-04-2011)  Beach Huts @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·海滩草棚 04-04-2011)
 Fishing Boats @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·渔船 04-04-2011)
 Hilton Sharm Dream Resort @ Naama Bay
(纳马湾·希尔顿“山城”沙姆梦想度假村 04-04-2011)  Pool of Hilton Sharm Dream Resort
(希尔顿沙姆梦幻度假村·泳池 04-04-2011)  Water Polo @ Hilton Sharm Dream Resort
(希尔顿沙姆梦幻度假村·玩水球 04-04-2011)  Seaside Terrace @ Naama Bay
(纳马湾·观海台 04-04-2011)
 Tea House @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·茶坊 04-04-2011)
 Old Market @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·老市场 04-04-2011)
 Breakwater @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·防波堤)
 Ferry Boats @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·渡船 04-04-2011)
 Lunch @ Aladdin in Dahab
(达哈卜阿拉丁“信仰的高贵”餐厅·午餐 04-04-2011)
 Night Market @ Naama Bay (纳马湾·夜市 04-04-2011)
 Fairuz Lebanese Restaurant
(费鲁兹“绿松石”黎巴嫩餐厅 04-04-2011) 
Kafta bil Sanieh @ Fairuz Lebanese Restaurant (费鲁兹黎巴嫩餐厅·黎巴嫩砂锅烤肉串 04-04-2011)
 Permit to Mt. Sinai, Egypt (埃及西奈山通行证 04-04-2011)
Crosslinks (相关博文): 埃及(Egypt) Africa (漫游非洲) 小学二年级(2nd Grade)
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