2013-03-27 
每年三月底或四月初,適逢星期五耶穌受難日─復活節宗教活動,我家娃兒所在的北賓州學區都要特別選定這個時段,停課休學放羊三天,從星期四至星期一囊括周末,春假滿打滿算少說足有大半個禮拜。 坦率地講,我做夢都沒有想到,但凡適齡青少年兒童都可以向春天討價問假。在國內,我從未經歷這般歡度春假的學生時代;來美後,雖然早有聽說,南邊墨西哥坎昆“蛇巢”城可謂女生笑傲加勒比“勇者”海的勝地,而東面佛羅里達“花”州代托納“白日鎮”海灘(Daytona Beach)則是男生狂飆大西洋的天堂,可自己一直疲於奔命,即使正值時髦弄潮年紀,卻從來顧不上享受青春。
直到三年前娃兒首次提議春遊踏青,我才真正開始把春假納入議事日程。“天地轉,光陰迫。一萬年太久,只爭朝夕”!何不大人小孩一塊過把癮?
我想起大學低年級初學查爾斯·達爾文“自由人·親愛的朋友”進化論時,《物種起源》始發地加拉帕戈斯“巨龜”群島(Galapagos Islands)曾一度是我心中的嚮往。正如夏威夷“家園”對美國,復活節島對智利“陸地盡頭”,加拉帕戈斯群島系厄瓜多爾“赤道”不可多得的太平洋明珠。於是我很快理清思緒,決定追隨178年前達爾文考察足跡,希望在了解瀕危生物自然習性的同時,能夠給當地生態環境保護做點經濟貢獻。
加拉帕戈斯群島也叫達爾文群島、甚至科隆島,或簡稱巨龜群島,由19個火山島和42個岩礁組成,位於厄瓜多爾共和國西部太平洋海域,處於洪堡“山谷”、巴拿馬“多魚之地”和厄爾尼諾“聖嬰”(El Niño)三大洋流的交匯處,赤道橫穿其中,素有海洋生物大熔爐之美譽。它距離南美大陸621英里/1,000公里,正因為特殊的地理位置,長久與世隔絕,終於演變成今天活靈活現的生物進化博物館和天然野生動植物陳列室。且不夸沙灘海濱原始、火山岩漿奇異等自然風貌,鬣蜥、蜥蜴、達爾文雀、暗腰圓尾海燕、弱翅鸕鶿、岩鷗、厚嘴葦鶯、米鼠、加拉帕戈斯企鵝、加拉帕戈斯巨龜、加拉帕戈斯嘲鶇、加拉帕戈斯鷹、加拉帕戈斯田雞、加拉帕戈斯哀鴿、加拉帕戈斯綠鷺、加拉帕戈斯岩燕、加拉帕戈斯靜崖燕、加拉帕戈斯蠅霸鶲、加拉帕戈斯海獅、加拉帕戈斯海狗等無脊椎動物、爬行動物鳥類動物以及哺乳動物絕對舉世無雙,而且容易相見!
如同地處熱帶地區其它很多國家,這裡終年僅有雨季(12月─4月)和旱季(5月─11月)兩種氣候之分。雨季巴拿馬暖流穿過赤道南下,海水溫度適宜,鳥類繁殖興旺,植被蔥鬱茂密,潛水戲魚正是時候;旱季洪堡寒流經過秘魯“河流”北上,水溫明顯下降,植被乾枯凋零,但海鳥成群結隊凌空入水,弱肉強食適者生存,場面蔚為壯觀。
自從1978年加拉帕戈斯群島榮登世界科教文組織《世界遺產名錄》以來,當地的生態環境和自然資源得到國際上廣泛重視,來此參觀旅遊的人數雖然逐年增加,但儘可能被控制在最低範圍之內。島上機場容量極其有限,由美國過往的遊客要麼停靠首都基多“第五”,要麼中轉其金融中心類似中國上海的瓜亞基爾“美地”(Quayaquil),然後再改乘小型班機飛往加拉帕戈斯群島。正因如此,我們旅遊度假全部行程除了包括加拉帕戈斯群島“名人·探險”號遊輪(Celebrity Xpedition)一周和基多古城將近三天而外,瓜亞基爾轉機需要耗掉整整八個小時,大大超出實際飛行時間。
不管怎樣,在精心策劃了三年之後,我們整裝待發。 Aerial View of Quito, the Equatorial Capital
(鳥瞰基多·赤道首都) Daphne Major, Served as an Ideal Site for Evolution Research as the Finches w/ Few Predators or Competitors
(大達芙妮“月桂樹”島·由於雀類的捕食者或競爭對手很少,因此成為進化研究的理想場所) Daphne Minor,a Haven for a Diverse Array of Bird & Marine Life
(小達芙妮島·各種鳥類和海洋生物的避難所) Bartolomé Island, w/ Its Pinnacle Rock, a Distinctive Volcanic Plug Jutting out over Sullivan Bay
(巴托洛梅“犁地者之子”島·擁有獨特火山栓的尖峰岩,突出於沙利文“黑眼睛”灣之上)
Golden Cownose Ray (金牛鼻魟)
Razor Surgeonfish (側棒多板盾尾魚)
Whimbrels (中杓鷸)

Galápagos Oystercatchers (加拉帕戈斯蠣鷸) Female Great Frigatebird (雌大軍艦鳥)
Male Great Frigatebird in Flight
(飛行的雄大軍艦鳥) Male Great Frigate w/ Feathers on Gular Sac
(雄大軍艦鳥·喉囊上帶有羽毛) Galápagos Lava Lizard Capable of Tail Detachment as a Defense Mechanism
(加拉帕戈斯熔岩蜥·具有斷尾求生防禦機制) Lava Lizard, Behaved w/ Rapid Head Bobbing & Push-up Stances
(熔岩蜥行為模式·快速點頭和俯臥撐姿勢) 
Darwin's Finch, a Symbol of Natural Selection & Adaptation (達爾文雀·自然選擇和適應的象徵) 
Chatham Mockingbird, an Endemic Species to San Cristóbal Island in the Galápagos (查塔姆“林中家園”仿生鳥·加拉帕戈斯群島聖克里斯托瓦爾“基督的承載者”島的特有物種) 
Galápagos Mockingbird w/ Inquisitiveness (好奇心旺盛的加拉帕戈斯仿生鳥) 
Mockingbird in Flight (仿生鳥疾飛)

Large Ground Finch w/ a Classic Example of Adaptive Radiation (大嘴地雀·適應性輻射的典範) 
Large Ground Finch, the Largest of Darwin's Finches, Both in Overall Size & Beak Size (大嘴地雀·最大的達爾文雀) Galápagos Flycatcher (加拉帕戈斯霸鶲)
Galápagos Brown Pelicans, a Living Symbol of How Successful Wildlife Conservation Can Be
(加拉帕戈斯褐鵜鶘·野生動物保護成功的鮮活象徵) Brown Pelican in Flight (飛行的棕鵜鶘)

Galápagos Penguin, the Only Penguin Species to Live near the Equator (加拉帕戈斯企鵝·唯一生活在赤道附近的企鵝物種) Flightless Cormorant, the Only Cormorant Species Unable to Fly
(弱翅鸕鶿·唯一不會飛的鸕鶿物種) 
Flightless Cormorant w/ Adaptations for Diving (弱翅鸕鶿·適應潛水) Galápagos Flamingo, the Only Time to Gather While Mating & Migrating
(加拉帕戈斯火烈鳥·唯有交配和遷徙時才聚眾扎堆)

Great Blue Heron, a Symbol of Good Luck & Prosperity (大藍鷺·好運和繁榮的象徵) Lava Seagull, the Rarest Gull in the World
(熔岩海鷗·世上最稀有的鷗類) 
Lava Heron, an Endemic to the Galápagos Islands (熔岩蒼鷺·加拉帕戈斯特有鷺類) 
Lava Heron w/ Its Wonderful Camouflage (熔岩蒼鷺·擁有出色的偽裝能力)
Yellow-Crowned Night Heron, Crab Specialist
(黃頂夜鷺·捕蟹專家) Galápagos Dove, a Ground-Dweller & Crucial Cactus Pollinator
(加拉帕戈斯哀鴿·地棲動物,重要的仙人掌傳粉者) Blue-Footed Booby, Distinctive Coloring in Neck, Head, & Beak
(藍腳鰹鳥·脖子頭部和喙顏色各有不同) Blue-footed Booby, the Brightness of the Feet Decreases w/ Age
(藍腳鰹鳥·腳的亮度會隨着年齡的增長而降低) 
Blue-Footed Booby, a Symbol of Creativity & Dreaming (藍腳鰹鳥·象徵創造力和夢想) Lava Gull in Flight (飛行的熔岩鷗)
Lava Gull, the Rarest on Earth
(熔岩鷗·世上最罕見的海鷗) 
Mom Lava Gull & Chick (熔岩鷗媽與幼雛) Lava Gull Juvenile (小熔岩鷗)
Galápagos Sea Lions, Females Exclusively Nurse Their Own Pups
(加拉帕戈斯海獅·母海狗拒絕餵養非自生的孩子)
Female Fur Seal, Bearing Only One Pup @ a Time
(母海狗一次只生一崽) Fur Seal Pup (小海狗)
Mother & Pup Fur Seals Cuddled up Sleeping
(海狗母仔相擁而睡)
Fur Sea Lions w/ Its Preference for Rocky, Sheltered Coastline
(海狗·對岩石密布、避風的海岸線情有獨鍾) Green Sea Turtle & Fur Seal (綠海龜與海狗)
Green Sea Turtle (綠海龜)
Galapagos Giant Tortoise (加拉帕戈斯象龜)
Floreana Giant Tortoise (弗洛雷納“花朵”島巨龜)
Marine Iguana, Salt Sneezed out of Its Nose
(海鬣蜥·靠打噴嚏將多餘鹽分由鼻子排出體外) Marine Iguana, the Imp of Darkness
(海鬣蜥·黑暗頑童) Marine Iguanas, the World's Only Lizard Species Foraged in the Ocean
(海鬣蜥·世上唯一一種在海洋中覓食的蜥蜴) Marine Iguana Described by Charles Darwin in 1835 as a "Hideous Looking Creature, of a Dirty Black Colour, Stupid, and Sluggish"
(海鬣蜥·1835年達爾文描述為“醜陋的生物,顏色骯髒、黑色,愚蠢而遲鈍”) 
Marine Iguana, Mythical Explorer of the Galápagos Islands (海鬣蜥·加拉帕戈斯的神秘探險家) Green Iguanas w/ the Ability to Detach Their Tail as a Defense Mechanism
(綠鬣蜥·具有脫落尾巴作為防禦機制的能力) Land Iguana, Heat-Absorbed from Sunbath on Volcanic Rock & Heat-Conserved in Burrows from Sleep at Night
(陸鬣蜥·白天在火山岩上曬太陽取暖,晚上在洞穴里睡覺以保留身體熱量) Land Iguana, Primarily Herbivorous
(陸鬣蜥·食草為主)
Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Featuring Unique Relationship w/ Marine Iguanas by Eating Parasites & Ticks off Their Skin
(莎莉“公主”輕足蟹與海鬣蜥獨特的共生關係·吃海鬣蜥皮膚上的寄生蟲和蜱蟲) Sally Lightfoot Crab, a Ubiquitous Scavenger
(莎莉輕足蟹·無處不在的清道夫) Sally Lightfoot Crab Cleaning up the Galápagos' Coastal Ecosystem
(莎莉輕足蟹·清潔加拉帕戈斯群島的沿海生態體系) Galápagos Ghost Crab, the Painted Ghost Crab, or Cart Driver Crab
(鬼蟹·彩繪幽靈蟹或車夫蟹)
Nerita Snail, Gregarious Herbivore
(海螺·群居食草動物) 
Western Spotted Orbweaver (西斑圓蛛) Monarch Caterpillar (斑蝶毛毛蟲)
Crosslinks(相關博文): Ecuador(出遊厄瓜多爾)
South America(漂流南美洲) 小學四年級(4th Grade) |