2013-12-14
【Aiden in English】
Finally, after spending more than two days crossing the Arabian Sea from Oman, we arrived in Mumbai, India. As for its beautiful bay, Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, was the Indian financial center, making the city a melting pot of people and cultures. On the one hand, colonial architecture incorporated elements such asd German gables, Dutch gambrel roofs, Swiss timbering, Romanesque arches, and Tudor casements, along with traditional Indian features. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Victoria Terminus was built in the Gothic Revival Style, and it was the former headquarters of the Bombay University. On the other hand, cows were strolling in the bustling emporium, where sugarcane juice was freshly offered with a unique flavor and a pungent smell. As I exited the cruise ship, I first noticed the pollution. Despite the clear and tranquil sky, the city was shrouded in a heavy, hazy fog or orange smog. The pollution shaded out the sun and made all symbolic architecture fade into a clog. The second thing that stood out was the hundreds of people carrying lunchboxes. They were well-known as Dabbawalas, similar to the pizza delivery service in Mumbai. Instead of pizza, it's rice and curry vegetables. The Dabbawallas traveled on foot, by bicycle, by train, and by bus to deliver lunch to people working in office buildings at noon. In America, they could drive a car around to deliver lunches. It was amazing how the Dabbawallas hardly missed the boxes over a century, since most of them looked exactly the same to me. The third thing that stunned me was Dhobi Ghat, the open-air Laundromat in Mahalaxmi, where locals would pay to have their laundry hand-washed, hung outdoors to dry, and ironed on a fire-stove. This had lasted for hundreds of thousands of years in their tradition. The male-only washers called Dhobiwalas sweated all over their bodies, and they seemed to be smacking the dirty clothes against a concrete basin filled with water. I couldn't even imagine how exhausted the workers must feel, and I felt even worse when my eyes fell on how much more they had to do for the rest of the day. Piles and piles of clothes went on as far as I could see. It would take at least a week or a month to finish. In addition, I wondered how they could tell whose clothes belonged to whom. Hundreds of racks stood on the ground, filled with clean shirts, pants, saris, and kurtas, but no labels were in sight. That was a question I will never know the answer to. Mumbai not only inherited its ancient tradition but flourished under various European influences throughout history. 【紅霞譯】
離開阿曼之後，經過兩天多阿拉伯海航行，我們終於抵達印度孟買“母親”。
久負“美麗海灣”盛名的孟買是印度共和國金融中心，雖然名字歷經變化，但一直不失為各民族同胞及其多元性傳統文化的大熔爐。一方面，當地經典建築滲透了濃重的殖民色彩，德國三角牆、荷蘭復折式屋頂、瑞士木框撐架、中世紀圓窗拱門、英國都鐸窗扉等西洋流派橫貫城區大街小巷，聯合國教科文組織《世界遺產名錄·維多利亞“勝利女王”火車站》再現了典型的哥特式復興藝術，孟買大學同樣將這種古典主義發揮得淋漓盡致；另一方面，母牛大搖大擺地漫步於人聲鼎沸的繁華商業鬧區，鄰家新鮮榨出的甘蔗汁香甜可口，保你百味俱全。
剛一走下遊輪，孟買城市污染首先引起我高度注意，晴朗的天空掛上濃重的橙霧，霧霾遮日障目，所有著名建築物因此而變得模糊不清，無一倖免。
其次，數以百計手提各色飯包的達巴瓦拉“送飯員”，這種飯盒快遞格外招人眼球，他們每天將新鮮烹飪的午餐便當從各預約人家及時運送到寫字樓上班族手中，猶如比薩餅店外賣，只不過他們所送的是大米飯咖哩菜，不及美國佬可以開車送貨，飯盒人多只能以徒步、騎單車、坐公交或乘火車方式完成這種登門服務。令我驚訝的是，一個多世紀以來飯盒人午餐送飯風雨無阻，儘管絕大多數飯包外表看上去沒有什麼特別不同，但他們幾乎從不出錯。
最後震撼我認知的是露天貧民洗衣場，在這裡所有衣物都用手洗，自然晾乾後再用火爐加熱的鐵熨斗人工燙平，併疊好送歸顧客。位於瑪哈拉克希米“財富女神”的千人洗衣場歷史悠久，工藝傳統，幾千年來多比瓦拉“傳統洗衣工”清一色男士揮汗如雨，沒完沒了地站在水泥搓衣板上振臂摔打髒衣髒物，手頭上的活計尚未幹完，後續工作又堆積如山，也許再需花上一個星期甚至一個月的時間才能告一段落。成百上千個晾衣杆拔地而起，掛滿了洗淨的襯衫、褲子、長巾和禮服袍褂，而上面連根標記都沒有，他們怎麼區分混雜一塊的各家衣物，恐怕我這輩子也找不出答案。 顯而易見，孟買不僅有機地借鑑了歐洲文化，而且還執着地繼承了民族衣缽，最終創造出具有印度特色的繁榮昌盛。
Today in History(歷史上的今天): 2010: 等價交換(Exchange)  Mumbai Harbour, the Gateway to India
(孟買港·印度的門戶)
 Gateway of India, a Symbol of Conquest & Colonisation in the Architecture of Marathas w/ a Blend of Hindu Traditions, Regional Craftsmanship, & Functional Designs, Completed in 1924
(印度門·征服與殖民化的象徵，建於1924年、融合了印度教傳統、區域工藝和實用設計的馬拉地風格 12-14-2013)  Taj Mahal Palace, a Prime Example of Indo-Saracenic Architecture, Opened in 1903
(泰姬陵“王冠”酒店·印度—撒拉遜“穆斯林”式建築的典範，於1903年開業 12-14-2013)  Victoria Train Station in the Late 19th-Century Indo-Saracenic & Victorian Gothic Revival
(維多利亞火車站·19世紀晚期印度-撒拉遜與維多利亞哥特復興式) 
The Terminal @ Victoria Train Station (維多利亞火車站·站台) 
Turret of Victoria Train Station (維多利亞火車站·角樓)
 Bombay High Court in the Late 19th-Century Victorian & Art Deco Ensemble
(孟買高等法院·19世紀晚期維多利亞哥特式和裝飾藝術風格)  Bombay High Court, a Reminder of India's Colonial History
(孟買高等法院·印度殖民歷史的見證)  Rajabai Clock Tower of Mumbai Univ, Housing the Library in the Late 19th-Century Venetian & Gothic Revival
(孟買大學鐘樓·大學圖書館的所在地，19世紀晚期威尼斯和哥特復興式)  Oriental Bldg in the Late 19th-Century Gothic Revival
(東方大廈·19世紀晚期哥特復興式)  Royal Bombay Yacht Club & Statue of Shivaji @ Apollo Bunder
(皇家孟買遊艇俱樂部與阿波羅“太陽神”碼頭·希瓦吉“濕婆王公”雕像 12-14-2013)  Apollo Bunder (阿波羅碼頭)
 Ferry Commuters @ Apollo Bundar
(阿波羅碼頭·等船上班的乘客)
 Mumbai Municipal Corporation Bldg in the late 19th-Century Venetian Gothic & Indo-Saracenic (市政公司大廈·19世紀晚期威尼斯哥特式與印度-撒拉遜式)
 Asiatic Society of Mumbai, Historical Library & Museum
(孟買亞洲學會·歷史圖書館和博物館)
 Mansion of Vijay Mallya, King of Good Times
(“美好時光之王”維傑·馬利亞的頂層豪華公寓) 
Slumdog Millionaire (貧民窟的百萬富翁) 
Prince of Wales Museum of Western India in the Early 20th-Century Victorian Gothic and Art Deco Ensembles of Mumbai (西印度威爾士親王博物館·20世紀初期維多利亞哥特式和裝飾藝術風格建築群 12-14-2013) 
Main Lobby @ Prince of Wales Museum of Western India (西印度威爾士親王博物館·主廳)  Sculpture Gallery @ Prince of Wales Museum of Western India
(西印度威爾士親王博物館·雕塑館 12-14-2013)  Siddhivinayak Temple, a Symbol of Faith, Hope, & Devotion for Millions of People
(悉提維納亞克“象頭”神廟·數百萬人的信仰、希望和虔誠的象徵)
 Iskon Temple (國際奎師那知覺協會神廟)
 Holy Name Cathedral (聖名大教堂)
 Haji-Ali Daragh (哈吉·阿里“完成麥加朝覲·聖人”陵墓)
 Haji-Ali Daragh Blvd (哈吉·阿里陵墓大道)
 Sri Sri Radha Gopinath Expanded beyond Anyone's Wildest Dreams
(斯里·斯里·拉達·戈皮納斯“祈禱·崇拜·主奎師那·牧牛人之主”寺廟——超越任何人最瘋狂的夢想 12-14-2013)
 Meditation Worship @ Sri Sri Radha Gopinath
(斯里斯里拉達戈皮納斯神廟·思禱) 
Hindu Door @ Sri Sri Radha Gopinath (斯里斯里拉達戈皮納斯神廟·印度教大門)
 Murals @ Sri Sri Radha Gopinath
(斯里斯里拉達戈皮納斯神廟·壁畫 12-14-2013) 
Coat of Arm @ Sri Sri Radha Gopinath (斯里斯里拉達戈皮納斯神廟·盾徽)  Mani Bhavan Museum, the Former Residence of Mahatma Gandhi Served as His Mumbai Headquarters from 1917 to 1934
(瑪尼·巴凡“珠寶屋”博物館——聖雄甘地的故居，1917—1934年間從事政治活動的孟買總部 12-14-2013)  Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sangrahalaya, a Residence to Gandhi Launched the Exceptional Non-Cooperation, Satyagraha, Swadeshi, Khadi, Khilafat, & Home Rule movement
(聖雄甘地紀念館·由此住所發起了非凡的不合作、非暴力不合作、自由主義、卡迪布“手工織布”、哈里發“繼承”和地方自治運動 12-14-2013)  Mani Bhavan Museum Relief Of Mahatma Gandhi
(瑪尼·巴萬博物館——聖雄甘地浮雕 12-14-2013)
 Natl Gallery of Modern Art (國家現代美術館)
Flora Fountain (植物群噴泉) 
Statue of Patriots (愛國者雕像)
 A collecting Dabbawala, usually on a bicycle, collects Dabbas either from a worker's home or from Dabba makers.
(通常騎自行車從上班族家中或餐館那裡收集便當盒) 
Dabbawalla (飯盒快遞) 
The Lunchbox (便當袋)  Dhobi Ghat @ Mahalaxmi
(瑪哈拉克希米·千人洗衣場 12-14-2025) 
All Hand-Wash Men @ Dhobi Ghat (瑪哈拉克希米·全部是男性手洗工)  Queen's Necklace, Marine Drive (女王項鍊·海濱大道)
 Rush Hours (尖峰時刻)
 Public Transportation (公共交通 12-14-2013)
 Mumbai's Iconic Horse Carriages
(孟買標誌性馬車 12-14-2013)
 Carrying on the Head (頭載貨物)
 Traffic Police on Duty (交警當班)
 Jay Walk @ Colaba Causeway (科拉巴堤道·亂穿馬路)
 Colaba Causeway, Shopping Centres
(科拉巴堤道·購物中心)
 Chor Bazaar, “You can buy what you have lost in Mumbai back from this flea market"
(喬爾“盜賊”市場·如果你在孟買丟了東西，你可以從這個自由市場買回來)
 Street Fruit-Veggie Stand (果蔬地攤)
 Street Fresh Sugarcane Press (榨甘蔗地攤)
 Folkloric Dancing Under the Stars (星空下民族舞蹈)
 Sari-Kurta Dressed Locals
(身穿長巾寬鬆襯衫的當地人)  Teacher & Her Pupils (老師與小學生們)
 Morning Shower on the Street (街頭早浴)
Street Mendicants (街頭托缽僧)  Panhandlers & Vagrants (乞丐與流浪者)
Street Vendor Mom (沿街推銷手工品的母親) 
Street Vendor Lady's Daughter (窮人的孩子早當家) 
Haze over Mumbai Downtown (孟買市中心煙霞)
 Butcher's Is, Artificially Created During the Late 19th Century through the Reclamation of Land in the Mumbai Harbour
(屠夫島·19世紀末孟買港填海造地的人造島嶼)  Middle Ground Coastal Battery (中區海岸炮台)
 Fishing Boat against Nautica Oceania
(漁船與背後的“大海·航海”號遊輪)
 Showered Man (淋浴者)
 Dinner @ Toscana Dining of Nautica Oceania
(“大洋·航海”號遊輪意大利餐廳——晚餐 12-14-2013) 
Dinner @ Toscana Dining of Nautica Oceania (“大洋·航海”號遊輪意大利餐廳·晚餐 12-14-2013) Crosslinks(相關博文): India(出遊印度)
Across the Indian Ocean(穿越印度洋) |
